La tavola

Southern comfort

2011-08-12T05:41:00.001+12:00

Every other night, usually at the dinner table, my other half quizzes me about what I was doing, eating, or where I was, one year ago. Since we were in Italy at that time, it's an easy game. The food is generally the key to the answer.

With the multitude of eggplant (less the few the racoons have sampled) that are ripening in our garden, we are recreating the simmered summery vegetable dishes we enjoyed in Calabria last August. Stewed in ripe tomatoes, fresh herbs and earthy, crispy fried peppers, eggplant truly shine in this dish. We skip the olives (preferring to eat them on the side before and after the meal) and add a few dried chiles to the fry pan (before the garlic) cooking them until they are fragrant and crisp. We also add a zucchini or two depending on what is garden ready.

Eaten under the vines at 'room temperature' with crusty bread and the local ciro..

Southern comfort perfected.

Guffanti

2011-08-02T05:24:00.002+12:00

I love cheese in a way that I am certain is not natural. And the lengths I'd go to for cheese are generally great. However, along the shores of beautiful Lake Maggiore under the watchful eye of Il Sancarlone (Saint Charles Borromeo), in the Comune di Arona, finding good cheese proved to be no problem.

Guffanti, a family affair to this day, remains one of the local area cheese houses that specialise in affinage. In addition to Italy's greats and a few imports from France, you'll also find some wonderful lesser known regional cheeses. Walking through the ripening caves beneath the unassuming shop front (more of a loading dock than anything) off Arona's main street, with its damp brick walls and low ceilings, the aroma of ripening cheese meets you at the door, shakes your hand and welcomes you inside.

We had a great tasting after a tour. I'm not sure that tours are a regular thing but they weren't so busy and were happy to oblige a curious cheese loving traveler. Complete with a few of the local craft brews. We left with a good portion of perfect Parmigiano Reggiano and a bit of Taleggio that was the center of lunch not 15 minutes down the road.

If you are in Piedmonte, or driving through from Milano to Venezia, it's worth the diversion through the tunnels to the provincia di Novara, some spectacular scenery (and great cheese) on the other side.

Luigi Guffanti 1876 s.r.l.
Via Milano, 140 - 28041 Arona NO - Italy Tel. +39 0322 242038 / 47222

halloumi

2011-05-19T15:22:00.002+12:00

Its getting warmer here in Southern Ontario and even though warmer hasn't coincided with sunshine (so far!), we've been grilling. I love grilled antipasti during the warm days of summer or the mild rainy days of spring..

And few cheeses lend themselves to the grill as well as Halloumi.

Also a kid-friendly cheese, New Zealand's Zany Zeus makes a great one. It isn't in any "NZ style" and likewise those available here in Toronto, Canada and the via e-order in the USA. There isn't any point in adapting this cheese from its Cypriot roots. The whole point is that it doesn't disintegrate when exposed to a grill or high heat.

While flavour can vary somewhat, alter this exceptional melt and you no longer have Halloumi.

Keep the marinade simple - good olive oil, garlic, a little acid (any of red wine, white wine or sherry vinegars or lemon juice - which I favour), well-stored dried oregano and fresh parsley, basil (and maybe a few sun-dried tomatoes) are all you need to make this cheese bbq ready.
Delicious paired with asparagus or eggplant slices grilled after a dose of the same marinade, halloumi makes unique mini "sandwiches" and partners well alongside any other grilled veg, compatible protein and even watermelon!

Mangia!

Bassano del Grappa

2011-04-18T15:03:00.002+12:00

One of the places in Italy that we've always had intentions of visiting is Bassano del Grappa. If you ever socialise with someone from Treviso, and we do from time to time.. grappa always finds its way into the conversation and your glass! Regional pride means the grappa of choice is from Bassano, most likely the Nardini brand.

The Thirsty Traveler has even been there!

Park at the Museo Biblioteca-Archvio and walk through the streets to the Piazza Liberta, the old bridge, distillery.. with cafes and a beautiful bakery, Bassano del Grappa is the perfect place to wander!

Salute!

Wine and castles

2011-03-15T07:35:00.000+13:00

Our last day out of Castelfranco, we were thinking about getting back to Aosta to reload for a few days in Torino and Barolo. Tempting as it is to drive straight on, I had two essential stops planned: one in Padova, the hometown of our neighbours in Canada (where a visit to the Tomb of Saint Anthony is a must) and another here in Soave.

Soave it the self proclaimed city of vino and indeed, it is. Surrounded by miles of vineyards, it would seem as though the focus of production here would be on quantity rather than quality. However, we pleasantly found many exceptions to the rule (some best described by Jamie at wineanorak).

That's a rather diminutive description for the impressive curriculum vitae of Dr. Goode and the information in this this go-to site. It is one of the first sites I look if I'm researching vintages or want some solid European vino insight.

Driving up to the walled part of the city.

Once inside, parking required a bit of luck and once found, skill.

Walking up to the castle in Soave. Cobbled streets (this is not the place to sport the fashion footwear you picked up in Milano) require some sturdy soles. Although there is much evidence to the contrary (with all the high-heeled Italian women floating around), I'm convinced it takes years of practise to manoeuvre most of the historical cities of Italy in anything other than a secure flat.

But the Main reason we stopped in Soave was for wine. At Azienda Agricola Coffele, Chiara was there on the day to lead us through a tasting of wonderful and affordable, delicious vino. Enter through the archway above to the heavy doors, into a lovely temperate tasting room with the most gorgeous tavola inside.

via Roma, 5

Salute!

It's not all just wine and cheese

2011-03-09T08:13:00.001+13:00

When people think about Eataly and probably Italy, in general, they don't necessarily think about beer. Unlike England, Belgium, Czech Republic and Germany, the peninsula isn't exactly on the map for the average beer traveler. That, however, may be up for debate as the young people of Italy begin to favour the grain instead of the grape.

A visit to the belly of Torino's Eataly might even convince you further if artisanal beer is your thing. Sure it shares the basement with a massive wine cellar and the ripening rooms for ham and cheese royalty, but it is holding it's own and even has a small ristorantino where you can not only sample but enjoy beers paired with selected food pairings.

Eataly itself wasn't full to the rafters but it was steadily busy. Of all the ristorantinos, the beer hall was the busiest.

We sampled several. With pizza, perfetto!
(16/09/10)

Destination: Eataly.

2011-02-28T13:24:00.003+13:00

While some folks might do their Italian damage in shoes, fashion or cars, I'm a disaster in a market, grocery store. or any other specialty food shop. Last time we were in Italy, I also found treasures galore at small roadside stops (orange blossom honey!), agriturismi, and the local weekday markets.

This time we also flew out of Torino and that meant a stop in to the location of the original Eataly. Eataly has also recently made headlines in NYC, but the original is as good a place as any to start.

More to come!
16/07/10

Buon Anno 2011

2011-01-01T05:58:00.003+13:00

Thinking back on the past year, as we all do after every 365 days or so.. it has seemingly been, on the surface, quite uneventful. However, it has passed by with alarming speed and, when I really think about it, a lot has happened. We've been parents here for over a year now, exciting how much the wee sponge has absorbed in 15 months. Cooking, the adventurous kind, is happening more frequently nowadays, moving from its back burner position to the forefront a little more often. With the arrival of small teeth, introducing foods we eat means that mealtime is also becoming exploration time. And oh yes, we took a two month trip to Italy with an infant. No need to elaborate there.

We made a big deal out of saying Twenty Ten.. but does anything sound more futuristic than Twenty Eleven? I suppose Twenty Twelve.. but that, regardless of however quickly the time seems to be passing by in my world, is still one whole year away.

So Dear reader, best to you and yours for the New Year ahead.

Cake matters

2010-11-10T16:00:00.003+13:00

It's birthday time. We recently celebrated a First birthday for the owner of the smallest chair here at la tavola (also the owner of this messy wee hand) and now it's blog birthday as well.

5 years.

To you dear reader (many of you who are also writers of the blogs I enjoy), thank you for your time and comments over the years. I will pass on an old family recipe for chocolate cake. You can never have too many.

~Grandma's chocolate cake~

2 Cups of flour
1/2 c dutch process cocoa
2 lightly beaten eggs
1/2 c butter
2 c packed brown sugar
2 teaspoons of baking soda, dissolved in 1/2 c (125mL) buttermilk or soured milk
1 teaspoon good quality vanilla
250mL hot water

In a medium bowl, sift and measure the flour then sift in the measured cocoa.

Add the soda to the measured butter milk in a tall sided pouring cup. If you have no buttermilk handy or don't want to buy a liter of the stuff for the small amount required in this recipe, you can also add a tablespoon of cider vinegar to a 125mL measure and fill the remainder up with milk. Mix in the vinegar and allow the milk to set for a minute or so before adding the soda. Transfer the milk to a 2 cup (500mL) measure and add soda. This allows space for the bubbling that will occur when you add the basic soda to the acidic milk.

Heat the kettle.

Cream the sugar and butter together and add the slightly beaten eggs, mixing well.

Add the flour and cocoa to the sugar and eggs, mixing slightly before adding the sour milk and soda combination. When lump free and well mixed (by hand, no hand mixer required here), add 250ml of hot, not boiling, water.

Stir hot water into the batter until the mixture is smooth.

Pour evenly into prepared pans (a scale can help here). I cover the bottom with parchment then grease and flour 2 x 8" (20cm) cake tins. One other little favourite trick is the use of insulating cake strips.

Bake in a preheated oven at 325F (163C) for about 30 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean, or with a few slightly moist crumbs. I find it can take a little longer if you use the cake pan insulating strips.

Cover with the icing of your choice, my favourite chocolate accompaniment, Italian style meringue or the most under rated egg white frosting out there, 7 minute icing.

Buon compleanno!

Ham and cheese

2010-10-12T02:52:00.005+13:00

Eataly is one of those places, that for a foodie, is (almost) as near and dear to my heart as my own kitchen. And here, in the belly of Eataly, Torino, the are the royalty of the Italian food famiglia, Parmigiano Reggiano and Prosciutto di Parma.

The heady perfume of ripening cheese and aging prosciutto was positively intoxicating and I hadn't even been to the beer hall yet.

More on Eataly to come!

Thy Daily Bread

2010-10-04T03:58:00.016+13:00

A treasure found while walking from the center of Bassano to the Pontevecchio (the old bridge). Located in the Piazza Liberta along with the Church of San Giovanni Battista and the Palazzo del Comune (with the ornately painted clock on the facade), this bakery (gorgeous photo here*) is one of the oldest in town.

Great bread and panini to go.

Piazza Libertà, 25
Bassano del Grappa (Vicenza)
Tel: +39 0424 522119

*Photo by Terry, found on Flickr.

I Noce

2010-08-26T02:48:00.002+12:00

It's late August in the Val d'Aosta and Zia is harvesting the bounty from her hazelnut tree. Damp evenings make the late summer temperatures feel cooler and these are a treat alongside some younger Fontina and a few glasses of local Petite Arvine.

Mezzora

2010-08-21T06:19:00.000+12:00

A lovely light drinking gem from our side trip into Soave. Anywhere that proclaims to be the città del vino (city of wine) deserves, at the very least, a pause.

We stayed for two days.

Interestingly enough (at least to me), the winery, Cantina Sociale di Monteforte has, as many wineries in Italy do, a Kiwi connection. Matt Thompson of NZ Delta Vineyards (and Kiwi-Oeno Ltd.), although he wasn't around on the day, also fashions wine at Monteforte. And while rugby is a popular sport in the Veneto, it also likely explains the All Blacks emblems on the trucks parked in the receiving bay..

We took a mixed case back to St. Marcel, Aosta and enjoyed this bottle at Zia's house from the second storey balcony of her stone villa (circa 1664). As the mountains disappeared into the night and the twinkling lights of small communities and castles emerged from the darkness on this hazy, humid evening, I decided that the constant sound of running mountain water makes one very thirsty.

Salute!

Cascata del Toce

2010-08-18T15:33:00.009+12:00

It started as a grey day. Not sure if we should wait for better weather to make the 2 hour drive from Anzola to Formazza to check out the Cascata del Toce but we left anyway.

Am I ever glad we did.

The mist and occasional rain did nothing to take away from the surrounding grey stone and intense green of the landscape. If anything, the stone and slate roofed houses seemed more in place in the diffused light of an overcast day.

The drive used to take much longer but with the addition of several extensive tunnels, it is much shorter. The road still narrows considerably in places, through villages, along the cliff edge and across the occasional single lane bridge.

In Formazza and along the way, there are more places to stay than I had thought but would secure a reservation for next time. The locals are very proud of their cuisine (surprise surprise) and many local specialities (Ossolani and Piemontese) showed up on menus at both places we stopped. The local beers are good as well although I think I'd prefer all but the Nora in the winter months..

From the top of the waterfall, looking into the Formazza Valley, I felt as if I were at the top of Italy. It is true mountain territory. And while there may be a mere 500 or so inhabitants, it is definitely worth a look.

Ciao!

meringues

2010-08-05T15:26:00.002+12:00

We'd been to Polistena to order a baptism cake.. and found these divine meringues in the process. Perfect for a sweet accompaniment to a strong afternoon coffee.

I heart gazzosa

2010-07-28T09:16:00.002+12:00

Not your ordinary Italian soda.

I love gazzosa.

Distinctly and intensely flavoured with the limone dfusato dio amalfi, this is indeed a national treasure and as such has been designated as a Slow Food Presidia (Biodivesity). Does it make it taste any better? For me, definitely. Because I know the protection afforded to these lemons by the Foundation means that they will be available for many years of enjoyment in the future.

The chinotto is also very tasty.

More bits (in Italian) on Lurisia Gazzosa and Chinotto here.

San Giorgio

2010-07-25T14:58:00.000+12:00

This is San Giorgio (Saint George). The Saintly reason we've traveled to San Giorgio Morgeto in late July is because the Feast of this patron Saint and San Giacomo is typically held on the last Sunday of the month. Last year was different and it was moved to the 15th of August to run consecutively with that holiday.

The day (or in this case, evening) starts with a mass and a procession where the statues of the Saints are paraded around town. Not so simple considering that these Saintly statues are HEAVY and the town is on a fair incline. After 6pm mass, it was well after dark when San Giorgio made his second pass of the fontana.

If you've been to Italy in the summer months, you know all about the local festivals. If you haven't actually been to one, you've likely heard it. No Italian city, town or commune would dream of a festival without fireworks.

As luck would have it, we also enjoyed the local music festival and the Medieval Festival. The former celebrating local performers and few from overseas and the latter celebrating the Medieval history of the city and the culture, food, traditions and pastimes of that era.

More on the Medieval festival later..

Lighting a fire

2010-07-23T07:03:00.001+12:00

I love cooking with gas, over an open fire or (bliss!) a wood fired oven. However, regardless of the fuel source, I still need to light a flame.

Lighting a fire in Italy requires a bit of memory work for a visitor. I'd forgotten this until I was reminded by a friend also in San Giorgio Morgeto for the Festival.. but stopping at a tabaccheria or tabacchaio as well as the supermarket, butchershop, cheese shop or salumeria and possibly baker (if your bread isn't delivered to your door) isn't something your average Canadian would be familiar with, that is, if you're a non-smoker.

Why?

You just can't buy matches anywhere in Italy. The Italian state has a monopoly (and a website if you're interested) on tobbacco and everything associated with the use of it, including, but not limited to, fiammiferi (matches).

A tabaccheria also sells a various assortment of other seemingly odd bedfellows. Most importantly for a tourist: phonecards (recharge prepaid cellphones), bus/transport tickets, souvenirs, postcards and stamps. Snacks and drinks are also common. If you're staying awhile or permanently, it's useful to know that your local may also carry salt, newspapers/magazines, lotto tickets, tax and vehicle stamps. It is also possible you will find playing cards, shaving soap, toothpaste and sometimes videopoker/slot machines/pokies.

A much better explanation is available here courtesy of An Expatriate in Ripallo.

Grazie EiR.

chiave

2010-07-22T09:24:00.001+12:00

That sense of place exists for many Canadians of Italian descent. I think none more so than those who are a son or daughter of the many who left and still maintain their traditions on this side of the pond. If you left Calabria when you were very young or were born in Canada to Calabrese immigrants, it is a distinct and unmistakable feeling of home when that plane lands in Lamezia.

It exists for many people who are taken essentially by force or even choice from home. I have it when that plane lands in Nova Scotia or New Brunswick and I step off to the smell of the sea. My blood might still be at least a little saltier than most, I know the damp sweet scent of the Atlantic Maritime forest first hand and I've spent many a summer birthday at the beach shrouded in a near record breaking 19th straight day of fog.. And while my passport might confuse you, am I a Maritimer?

You bet.

So while nothing in the deep South of Italy might be familiar for me (except the wonderful abundance of fresh fish), my husband and his family are at home thousands of miles away from where they live, work and spend their days. You can see it as plain as if it were the sun on their faces.

The key to Zia's house and the front of the house above isn't where we'd normally stay. But with the passing a few years ago of the last remaining single Uncle, the old family homestead is closed and Zia had graciously opened her door to us. Setting our cases down on the terrazzo, opening the sliding latches on the windows and looking out the surrounding gardens of fruit trees, grape vines and tomatoestomatoestomatoes, makes even the most sentimental Italian hungry!

Ok, thirsty too.

Siamo arrivato!

2010-07-21T01:49:00.010+12:00

Like I remembered, southern Italy even smells warm. With the window down, warm warm air and sun in my face, we left Lamezia Terme and made our way south.

Inhaling the smell of sunshine and of a place that doesn't see a serious winter, the sunbaked earth, rock, never distant ocean and fields of growing things give Calabria its intoxicating perfume. This year, all was green thanks to an abundance of rain and the tomatoes, among so many other things, were ready.

This dish is one of ease and simple flavours. Hour old potatoes, garden warm eggplant (aubergine), peppers, onion, garlic, tomatoes and herbs dressed in fragrant, buttery Calabrese olive oil make for a great fry up. Some homemade salami and fresh bread complete the meal.

Pass the cirò!

Food for football

2010-06-20T09:05:00.005+12:00

The menu is set (marinated lamb and spicy sausages for the barbecue) and the Steinlager and Peroni are chilling in anticipation for tomorrows match.

As you might have guessed, we are a house divided. And while there might be a few blue shirts in the house, one will be All White.

Destination: ITALIA

2010-06-18T06:17:00.007+12:00

All arrangements, tickets, and transport are final. In a few short weeks, I'll be in the shade of an olive tree possibly enjoying a small bottle of Brasilena or a Crodino.

Yes, we're going to Italy.

We'll be spending a month in Calabria, possibly a few of those days at the beach, then making our way North to the Val d'Aosta.

To get in the spirit, I've adorned la tavola with lemons! One of my favourite things about Calabria is the wonderful citrus fruit. Lemons that taste of the Mediterranean sunshine.

We're very much looking forward to the trip. We haven't been in a few years and there are lots of things about our Italy that I'm looking forward to sharing with you, dear reader. Hope you can join us from time to time..

Destination: Chianti

2010-06-05T09:20:00.002+12:00

This pantry staple, farro, is destined for chianti. I plan to use it risotto style, recipe courtesy of David Rocco's website. It is also particularly nice added to soups as a barley substitute.

While we here in Canada have been enjoying tales of David's Italian culinary exploits for quite some time, those South of the border can soon be living la dolce vita vicariously through David (his wife Nina and adorable twin daughters) as well. His show recently aired on US television.

Congratulazioni David!

Riesling report

2010-05-21T09:48:00.007+12:00

We know I love Central Otago. And while I am quite far from that lovely place these days, the scent of this super fragrant Riesling transports me back in an instant.

Label still a little wrinkly from chilling, the wine inside was in fine form. Citrusy (lime) appley scented nose with some floral (honeysuckle) notes. It is a (more citrus) mouthful with a fine balanced acidity and a minerality that comes through in the finish.

Enjoy this lightly chilled on the front porch.

When in Rome

2010-05-04T14:02:00.010+12:00

When we need a speedy dinner, one of our busy weeknight go-to dishes is pasta alla carbonara. Carbonara is a dish of Roman origin but it's exact history and ingredient list are, as with many of the iconic pasta dishes of Italy, often subject to debate and what is locally available.

We prefer a sauce made from eggs only (no cream), flavoured with pancetta, bacon or guanciale, a blend of pecorino romano and parmigiano reggiano, fresh parsley and a good dose of freshly cracked black pepper.

The eggs are an important part of this dish. They provide the body of the sauce and should be as fresh as possible. I use whole eggs and occasionally the extra yolk if I need the white for part of another course.

Pancetta, bacon or guanciale. Pancetta makes great sauce. Bacon, being more readily available (and likely more budget friendly as well) will certainly do the job. We have, in the past few years, cured our own pork cheeks (much like Matt's at Wrightfood) and the results were pretty good. The sheer richness begs for use in carbonara or a paper thin slice, draped and melting, over warm from the oven bread - if your cholesterol levels are in need if a boost.

I usually blend the cheeses (favouring a higher ratio of pecorino to Parmigiano) but my Roman friend will only use pecorino. The flavour is sharper and the results for both are delicious.

At last the pasta.. always a long pasta and, 99% of the time, that means spaghetti. Occasionally linguine makes it into the pot for carbonara but never a short pasta. For us, the whole point of this silken egg sauce is lost on penne, farfalle or the like.. those long strands are essential in allowing for the perfect amount of sauce to pasta in every bite.

For wine.. strangely enough, this dish typically seems to favour a glass of Sauvignon blanc, a Sémillon or a blend of the two. Two of my favourites are from Whitehaven and Pegasus Bay. On a weeknight, a bargain Aussie Sémillon blend (and there are many) would be a great match. If you're not totally sold on Sauvvy, preferring a fuller bodied white, try Cooper's Creek Gisborne Arneis for something different.

Saluté!

A Greek Easter

2010-04-12T17:09:00.001+12:00

The Greeks know a thing or two about sweets and do up Easter in fine fashion. Along with the traditional Italian treats, I also made Homebaking's version of these cookies, Christine's melomakarona, and Alton's yummy baklava.

Having given up chocolate for Lent.. these citrusy sugar-dusted shortbreads, nutty delights and honey soaked triangles are suitable substitutes in the short term.

This post is a little behind but I hope it finds you, dear reader, having had a most blessed Easter.

Posts in the works

2010-03-29T04:49:00.003+13:00

I can't believe I am staring down April already! So much to do and so little time.

Like tonights dinner awaiting the oven (above), so are several posts that have yet to make it to blogland. You'll have to forgive me, dear reader, as I'll be posting retroactively a few bits to keep them seasonally relevant.

That's a promise given the cooperation of a certain 6 month old. People warned me how fast the first year would fly by.. and it certainly is. He's wonderful. Just don't get between him and the pureed sweet potato at teatime.

La prima colazione preferita del mio suocero.

2010-01-24T17:21:00.003+13:00

What is it about old Italian men and not eating breakfast?? My suocero gets up in the morning at sparrows fart (that's the early wee hours, aka crack of dawn.. etc.) and not for no particular reason. Whether it's to 'zappa' the garden, to check the wine, to pick through the drying beans or make tomato sauce.. and no more so than during salami 'season', he's up and out the door. Really. Bloody. Early.

And what does he eat?

Nothing save for a biscuit and an espresso (corretto, naturalmente). And he'll run until mid morning on that.

Then it's all on. Fried potatoes, hot peppers and an egg or two (practically poached in the remaining spicy oil). It's a breakfast that sticks to the ribs (if nothing else) and after all the work he's put in, he's earned it.

Mangia!

Pasta alla Norma

2010-01-10T14:31:00.000+13:00

The beginnings of Pasta alla Norma in my sauté pan. By the time the dish was done, so were we. Rare is the evening when we get through a meal without bub related fun.

I know Jamie's recipe shows pieces of aubergine, but I cook them soft so they barely hold together. Once cooked, they get a sprinkle of toasted breacdcrumbs, maybe a tablespoon or so, then on with the rest of the recipe. Why? Just to provide a bit of body to the sauce and likely a traditional thing as it would have helped stretch the sauce and cheese back in the day.

We had a glass of 2006 Monte Antico Sangiovese/Merlot/Cabernet Sauvignon with our our dinner. I'd opened it to pair with pizza the night before and thought the acidity would compliment the pasta as well.

mangia!

Buon anno

2010-01-01T14:08:00.002+13:00

January 1st. Two Thousand and Ten. Twenty Ten. What will the next year hold??

Well, if the past year has been any indication.. full of surprises. Last year at this time, I was taking a WSET course, working and volunteering at various wine shows and tastings, and interviewing for cheesemaker roles. I'd never have guessed that I'd be starting out this decade with a wonderful new job (the 24-7 forever type as a new parent), a new job (the 9-5 sort) and projects aplenty.

However you slice it, it's bound to be exciting.

We saw in the New Year, albeit quietly (after the bub had gone to sleep) with the usual suspects of oysters, sauv blanc, and nibbly things. This year, I'd arranged for some interesting cheese that, as it happens, fits in my list of projects.

While I love baking, barbeque, matching beers and wines, and attempting all sorts of new dishes, cheese is my thing. My favourite being what is on my plate at the moment. I appreciate all the effort that goes into the making of a fine cheese and to that end, I plan to do alot of appreciating this year and will share what I discover. I hope to taste as many local offerings as possible and include a good dose of the classics we are fortunate enough to be able to enjoy from around the globe.

So for a simple January first lunch, we sampled Roncal. A wonderful sheeps milk cheese from Spain and a little slice of heaven and history for cheeselovers. While the production of Roncal had long been protected (regulated since about the 13th century) and it was the first Spanish cheese to be awarded DO status. Native sheep species are still used as is the practise of seasonal migration.

I find Roncal to be of medium sharpness, slightly nutty and retaining a good dose of "sheepiness" through which the herbal sweetness shines. We served the delicious 2006 Yalumba Hand-picked Tempranillo Grenache Viognier and Simon Waghorns' tremendous Astrolabe 2008 Sauvignon blanc, however, if a good, aromatic ale is your thing, it wouldn't be out of place here either.

Happy New Year Dear Reader. May all your hopes, dreams and resolutions for 2010 come true.

Blood Oranges

2009-12-31T23:46:00.000+13:00

I love local food. Fruits and veg, locally raised meats and farmhouse cheese, speciality products.. even peanuts! But certain times of year, there are some imported goodies that are hard to give up.

Blood oranges from the peninsula country, Italy. If you've ever had these purple flecked oranges with their jewel flecked interiors, you know what I'm talking about.

These, along with cactus pears (wonderful pics here) and abate pears, are delicious treats at Christmastime.

Hope this Christmas finds everyone well and happy and may your New Year be full of life's delectable treats.

Buon anno a tutti!

Buon Natale

2009-12-24T09:00:00.003+13:00

This is what the Calabrese are eating for Christmas Eve.. It's the Feast of the Seven Fishes and if I have room after all the zeppole (zippuli, in dialect) I'll be tucking into this wonderful, light seafood pasta.

Buon Natale!

Aglio e olio

2009-12-07T17:43:00.000+13:00

The simpliest pasta dish. Homegrown garlic and oil.. d'oliva, naturalmente. It's the place to showcase the best pasta you can find.

I'd picked up the latest PC offering in the fresh pasta department. I'm usually skeptical of supermarket fresh pastas, often finding them too heavy, gluey or poorly flavoured. Not so this time. These were pretty good noodles.

An easy sizzle of garlic and chiles in olive oil tossed with tagliolini. When you want to forgo a little preparation in favour of sharing the meal together, this (along with some leftover sautéed greens) is an easy dinner for busy new parents.

Mangia!

Almond Joy

2009-12-02T14:47:00.001+13:00

This Fine Cooking recipe is delicious with roasted pears or seasonal stone fruit. The cake is toasted almond brown butter flavoured fluffy goodness. A perfect light ending to a heavy holiday meal.

Joy to the World.

Takatu

2009-11-29T14:30:00.000+13:00

This is one stunning Pinot gris.. an elegant, creamy, rich, DRY wine, when most of the kiwi offerings of this varietal contain some residual sugar. In the world of NZ Pinot gris, however, there seems to be no set NZ or even regional style per se, and that's ok. Variety is indeed the spice when it comes to this burgeoning grape.

They also make some great red wines too. If you are in the vicinity of this beautiful winery and lodge.. it's worth the detour if not a purpose trip.

The cookie jar

2009-11-21T11:01:00.000+13:00

In addition to a mixture of melted chocolate and cocoa in the batter.. these little brown nuggets of chocolately goodness also contain bittersweet chips and walnuts.

I love them.

Melt 125g of chocolate and 6Tbsp of butter stirring constantly over low heat in a heavy bottomed saucepan. Once melted, set aside.

Combine 1/2c flour, 2Tbsp unsweetened cocoa, 1/4 tsp each baking powder and salt in a small bowl.

In mixer (a larger bowl) cream 1 c sugar and 1tsp vanilla with 2 large (or 3 small) eggs.

Stir in the cocoa mixture, then the flour mixture until well blended.

Stir in 125g chocolate chips and 1 c walnuts.

Cookies can be made to this point and refrigerated, covered, overnight or for at least an hour.

Heat oven to 180C.

Roll 2.5 cm balls of dough and place on ungreased cookie sheets.

Bake for approximately 10 minutes or until puffed and slightly crackled.

Allow to cool for 2 minutes before moving to a rack to cool a little more before mowing through them with a side of milk, cup of coffee or tea.

Mangia!

Peregrine

2009-11-01T08:21:00.002+13:00

Ok, so this isn't a photo of their award winning winery, it's the woolshed. But a better angle to reflect on the stunning stillness (not perfectly still, but still enough) and light of a late Central Otago autumn afternoon.

We did a tasting in the Mother Ship. Warm toasty Pinot noir to warm the bones of weary travellers. The tasting area overlooks the barrel room and has some great seating so you can do it all in comfort.. lovely riesling as well.

Previously, I'd been there for a Shapeshifter concert two years before. As if you needed another reason to go to Central Otago, the summer concert series is a perfect way to take in a great Kiwi band or two.. sitting on the hill and sipping a sublime wine (or a skillfullly crafted local beer) in this stunning natural ampitheatre.

Saluté!

Herzog Pinot Noir 2001

2009-10-30T01:06:00.001+13:00

Hans Herzog makes great wine. It's very often gone under the radar, but if you have Pinotphile tendencies or some duck on the menu.. Herzog Marlborough Pinot noir is a wine you should seek out.

I'm not sure how all the labelling conflicts with Herzog in the US have changed things domestically, if at all.. but I believe in the US it is now referred to as Hans Herzog.

The 07' Pinot noir is as delicate and delectable as the rabbit terrine that should accompany it. One finely crafted wine.

Saluté.

Homemade Pitta

2009-10-17T15:46:00.000+13:00

Nothing is easier than homemade pitta. The freshness of this bread is worth the minimal effort when combined with savoury dips and some marinated lamb skewers.

The only patience required is the short proofing time when the individual pitta are rolled out. Without this proof, the breads won't puff as nicely in the oven so they can be split for filling later on. They also require some space for proofing as the recipe makes a dozen or so medium-sized pitta.

The critical step: letting the breads cool under the cover of a damp tea towel makes lovely and pliable pitta that keep amazingly well (in a plastic bag) for a couple of days.

*****************************

~Easy homemade pitta~

1 package of yeast
125 mL warm water
3 cups all-purpose flour (or a mixture of ap and whole wheat flour)
1 1/4 teapsoon salt
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
250mL lukewarm water

Dissolve sugar and yeast in 125mL of warm water. Let sit for 10-15 minutes until frothy. Combine flour(s) and salt in large bowl. Make a well in the flour and pour in yeast. Slowly add the remaining warm water and stir until an elastic dough forms. Place dough on floured surface and knead for 10-12 minutes until it is smooth and elastic and no longer sticky. Place dough in bowl a large bowl coated with vegetable or olive oil and turn dough over to coat.

Allow to proof for about 3 hours or until doubled in size. Then, roll into a rope, pinch off 10-12 portions and roll them into balls. Place balls on floured surface and let rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

Move rack with baking stone to the very bottom of oven. Preheat oven to 260C. Roll out each ball of dough with a rolling pin into circles. Each should be about 12-14cm across and 1/2 cm thick. Bake each circle for 4 minutes until puffed. Turn pitta over and bake for an additonal 2 minutes.

Remove each pita and set inside a damp teatowel. Pitta will deflate and form a pocket in the process.

******************************

Serve with dips, salads and thinly sliced or cubed meats.

Mangia!

A proper date scone

2009-10-14T08:35:00.000+13:00

When I hear the term " proper" referring to food, it makes me think of a simple or homestyle version of whatever is being deemed as a "proper" this or that. Often, it's the old, traditional stand-bys that are mucked up with some flash addition or fancified inclusion that leaves us with a hankering for however our mum, aunty or nana might have made it.

This is THE scone recipe I follow when not using my standby Edmonds cookbook version (Arfi at HomeMadeS been baking these too) or the luxe Donna Dooher (of Mildred Pierce fame) recipe to which I add a cup of chopped dates, a smattering of grated lemon zest and a pinch of cinnamon. Any of these make a delectable treat and as Mildred says "there's no such thing as a lowfat scone".

Just to make sure, please pass the butter.

Flexible fritters

2009-09-26T11:16:00.005+12:00

Autumn, like spring, is yardwork time. The end of colourful blooms, harvesting vegetables and putting the finishing touches on some much needed renovations.

Thankfully, that list of tasks comes with some neighbourly help. There is a group of us that, when there is work to be done, are always available to help. It's still work but with a good dose of socialising, snacks and dinner in the mix for balance.

We were expecting a damp day, not terribly cool but just enough so that you could be comfortable working in the yard. You might, however, keep a light jumper handy and partake of a little something sweet for sustenance.

So, I'd mixed up a batch of fritters (aka doughnuts) the night before to get us started. The dough is quite remarkable in the sense that it allows you to mix up tender yeast dough in the evening, proof overnight in the refrigerator and have lovely light fritters in time for coffee. I put a pot of coffee on and got to the business of frying.

Coffee-glazed Fritters

I don't use the instant espresso powder called for in the recipe, rather a 1/4 c of stovetop espresso (omit other liquid) works just fine. These are light textured, bordering on fluffy and with a delicate sweet coffee glaze. Good for a cool spring day and perfect if you feel your morning tea is lacking in the sugar department.

Ciao!

Peachy

2009-09-20T01:49:00.000+12:00

I spent what is now the summer before last in Central Otago. The predominate association with Central Otago, for me anyway, is none other than it's divine Pinot noir. However, while I spent my days amidst the vines, my flatmates spent their days in the fruit packhouses of Alexandra, Cromwell, Clyde and Roxburgh.

Not that I didn't benefit from their toil. A few of the packhouses allow some fruit (that is for one reason or another unsuitable for shipping) to make its way back to the flats of the seasonal workers. Of course, we ate much of it fresh but there were also desserts.. courtesy of the communal Edmond's Cookbook. Even though many of the girls returned to ovenless apartments in Taiwan, there were still several copies of this New Zealand institution packed securely for the trip.

On days off (Waitangi Day) and weekends, various puddings were made (crumbles, sauces and cakes.. no fruit dessert was left out) regardless of the soaring Central temperatures! Thankfully, two good swimming holes on the Manuherikia were close by for a refreshing dip. There was, however, one evening near the middle of February, that was unseasonally cool. We'd had rain that day and when the humidity dropped, it left the evening feeling more like late autumn than summer. Now, I'm usually thinking about food and food projects but it was a girl from Japan who actually got me to (seriously) thinking about making jam. All she said was how she wished that she could take some fruit home with her. And of course, that's entirely possible. In the form of peach jam.

After a trip to New World for sugar, pectin crystals and a box of jars, we got to the business of peeling and dicing and washing and sterilising, all the while thinking about scones, pancakes and toast. Then, assembly line style, we made 4 small batches of the most gloriously golden peach jam (infused with a bit of ginger). We each got 3 jars (heavy little tokens from summer in Central) and a small pottle we put in the fridge for eating straight away.

Scones anyone?

French toast and grilled peaches

2009-09-16T09:57:00.001+12:00

Something about bright colours and breakfast. I had some leftover wholemeal bread that I always use for french toast and I'd been thinking about using a punnet of blueberries to enhance some maple sirup. However after getting a look at the baskets of peaches covering endless tabletops at the market this morning, I had other ideas. It is getting toward the end of peach season so there are always a few that are perfect for the grill.

French toast at our house takes many forms depending on the season. Varying from a simple, weekend treat with fruit and sirup to a more elaborate stuffed holiday version accompanied by thick cream, preserved berries and their lovely liqueuered juices, french toast makes an ordinary Saturday morning special and a special Saturday even moreso.

You can whip up soaked bread just before you plan to cook for an easy spur of the moment breakfast or make it up the night before and have it ready to go from the fridge. The latter option is great when an early morning is a guarantee.

This morning, however, after seeing the brilliant golden interiors of these Red Haven peaches. it was a last minute inspiration that coincided with a planned grill session and just in time for A Taste of Yellow. A few beaten eggs, splash of milk, a pinch of cinnamon and little grated orange zest and juice make a lovely bath for the thick sliced wholemeal loaf.

The toast can either be cooked stovetop or in the oven (great for large batches) but I simply fried the bread this morning while the peaches were given a turn on the grill. We were already heating the outdoor grill this morning for some tomatoes and peppers that would be salsa later on. If grilling isn't an option, a quick turn under the broiler or in the same frypan are easy, and just as tasty, alternatives.

With the bread golden brown pefection, I remove it to a plate. They sirup is simple as adding a little peach juice and maple syrup to the still hot pan, just to warm through, and tossing in the grilled peaches to coat.

Pour peaches and sirup over the bread and it's to the table.

Mangia!
*******************************************

It is with much gratitude to Barbara that I post this in recognition of her hard work and inspiring attutude that make A Taste of Yellow into the meaningful event that it is.

To further raise awareness, this link is to a site and video that I hope will remind Ontarians and all Canadians that we have one of the top 5 Cancer treatment facilities in the world in Toronto. The Princess Margaret Hospital, like similar centers, do amazing work because people care enough to donate their time, money and energy be it in events like A Taste of Yellow, walks, runs and cycling events. So little from so many makes all the difference to those that need it.
http://www.pmhf.ca/

A Taste of Yellow 2009

2009-09-10T08:51:00.002+12:00

Hope everyone has created their favourite yellow recipes for A Taste of Yellow 2009. I am very much looking forward to the roundup.

Cheers,

birth days

2009-07-17T16:38:00.000+12:00

Here at la tavola, it's a birthday bonanza. We each celebrate a 30-something birthday this week and are happy to share the dates along with the duo over at winosandfoodies, a cousin and a nephew.

As much as I miss my winter birthday and the cool weather accompaniments (usually anything roasted and red wine compatible), having a summer barbeque is a good alternative. With a Greek and Turkish inspired menu of herbed chicken skewers, tomato-feta salad and lemony roasted potatoes.. I supposed I could get used to it.

Mangia!

Helado de crema morisca

2009-07-15T17:00:00.002+12:00

My darling friend and neighbour is from the city of Campeche. When we traveled there for her wedding, I was delighted by the street and bar foods, (panuchos being a favourite for the late night set), amazing seafood and the drinks, agua frescas (tamarindo!) and fruit juices. I also learned that Mexican food doesn't always mean heat. While it certainly CAN (the habernero is painfully hot!) and there are an abundance of hot sauces and condiments, earthy, acidic and roasted notes contribute to the many complex flavours that define regional Mexican cuisine and most expat Mexicans have a favourite sweet dessert be it chocolate or coconut based (and usually with canela/cinnamon) that reminds them of home.

Sugar? I know, not the first thing one thinks of when it comes to Mexican food, but one spoonful of helada di crema morisca and that will change.

Ice cream? Not something I thought I'd be finding in abundance in a country where coconut milk, cold beer or tequlia are the typical restortives.. it was in a small shop on the square that contained some of the most pecular flavour of ices that I had ever seen. Forget the savoury ice cream trend of the 90s, this was something else. Chocolate, chile, and camaron (prawn) ice cream?

No prawns here, however, the flavour building blocks of this ice cream begins with sherry. You can try using any of the oloroso or blends, but I had good results with a simple fino. The prunes that I use are still very moist and require only a few minutes in water to soften. If you can get a good Mexican vanilla it adds amazing flavour but is not critical here (I've used Tahitian paste with no complaints). The real flavour (and texture builder) was achieved by the use of tinned evaporated milk.

A strange ingredient, but essential in the typical milky but still strong Mexican coffee. The scent of which lured me from my hammock every morning. The richness provided by the evaporated milk makes massive amounts of heavy cream unnecessary. I first recall its flavour from stolen sips of my grandfathers tea and later, my mother's cheesecake ice cream (served with a delectable strawberry sauce). It worked then and it certainly works now.

So here is where I am reminded of what my sister asked me when we tried this recipe the first time.. that is sounded rather geriatric in nature and did I get my recipe form a nursing home menu?? Sherry and prunes? I suppose it does.

And it's delicious.

*************************

Helado di crema morisca

1 1/4 c caster sugar
1 Tbsp cornstarch
1/4 tsp. salt
375mL whole milk
125mL sherry
2 large or 3 small egg yolks, lightly beaten
160mL evaporated milk
240mL heavy cream (35%)
1-2 tsp. vanilla (paste or good extract)
1 C (loosely packed) dried prunes, rehydrated with boiling water and chopped fine.

Blend the dry ingredients and add the whole milk to dissolve sugar mixture. Bring to the boil over meduim heat. Add the sherry. Simmer for about a minute or so.

In a small bowl, lightly beat yolks and, whisking constantly, add some (about a cup) of the steaming milk in a thin stream. This will temper the yolks and prevent the formation of scrambled egg bits. Add the tempered yolks back to the pot and keep over low heat near a simmer for 2-3 minutes (mixture will heat to about 180C) and begin to thicken.

To start the cooling process, remove from heat and add the evaporated milk, prunes, vanilla and the cream. Pour into a bowl and cover the mixture with either saran or parchment allowing the cover to sit right on the surface (so no skin forms). Chill for a few hours or overnight to allow it to chill completely.

I've never set this in the freezer just by stirring, rather I use my Cuisinart. This also makes about 2 liters which is more than my machine holds so I use two bowls.

Enjoy!

Strawberries have arrived!

2009-07-06T10:36:00.000+12:00

Finally. Without a doubt, the most recognisable sign that spring is becoming summer, as roadside asparagus disappears, is the arrival of the first strawberries.

The amount of rain and lack of continuous sunshine to date has done nothing to assist but they are here nonetheless. I picked up a flat for freezing and also made some fruit based remedy to help with the current increase in temperature. Nothing goes with blue skies and 28C like strawberry granita.

Blend a quart of berries with the sweetener of your choice and sieve to remove seeds if you prefer. I like to remove them as they seem to multiply in this dessert (or settle to the bottom). I also like a bit of lime (I love lime) and a bit of spirit to further depress the freeezing point of the mixture. Any of tequila, rum or vodka would work, and just a tablespoon or so, as I don't want it to take over the flavour of the fruit, however, that is completely a personal preference and can be done to taste.

At this point, you can either churn the mixture in a home ice cream maker and allow it to set up in the freezer to make it more scoopable or you can set it in a tray and scrape with a fork or spatula every hour or so until set.

Mangia!

the flowers get stuffed

2009-07-04T07:09:00.000+12:00

It was a warm morning and we were in the garden.. talking about lunch, as you do, and also discussing an upcoming porchetta we are planning (more on that later!). The pig will be filled (ripieno or stuffed) with a savoury rice mixture. A favourite and easy way to cook rice (not to mention flavourful after absorbing all the cooking juices). From there the conversation deteriorated (new meaning to 'lost in translation") into me trying to explain to my suocero that, in NZ, the meaning of the saying 'stuffed' is akin to being tired and that to say 'get stuffed' well.. let's say that both will apply to the pig. Repeated attempts to say 'stuffed' with his thick Italian accent (all the while waving his hands around - as if to help the words flow) had me falling over with laughter, much to his amusement.

So, to accompany our glass of beer (gardening is thirsty work), I made some 'tired' zucchini flowers. Normally, we'd make pitea but not today. This 10 minute snack blends ricotta, a little fresh goat's milk feta and minced fresh herbs (I like parsley & basil) into a simple filling. A quick grating of grana (to taste) and a small egg to bind and we're in business.

The batter for frying is a simple tablespoon of the egg white from above, flour and a little water to thin the mixture. Season with salt and pepper.

Frying. Anytime I fry anything nowadays, I'm reminded of Maria Pia's cookbook where she comments on the current 'fear of frying'. We don't eat that much fried food so it's still a treat. But better to eat better food (not just any old parfried/frozen chip) when we choose to fry, no? Everything in moderation and all that.

For frying, especially small batches of fritters, I use grapeseed oil almost exclusively. High heat capability (that is, high smokepoint at 210C) and a nice mild flavour make for the perfect frying mate.

To assemble the flowers, just have them cleaned and ready, careful not to tear the petals when removing the inner bits. Place a small ball of the cheese mixture inside the flower, 1-2 teaspoons.

I know this seems like a tiny amount (it does depend on the size of the flowers), but the filling will release steam as it cooks and overstuffed flowers can burst (read: big splattering mess). When the temperature is at 180-185C, dredge the flowers into the batter using your fingers to regulate a thin coating and twist the ends of the petals together to create a crisp seal.

Flip the flowers when the edges are golden and brown evenly on both sides (they will sort of slump a little as they cook). Remove to paper towel to drain any excess oil. Let them cool slightly as the filling will be quite hot but not so long that they become soggy.

Serve with a chilled Peroni or your favourite local pilsner style.

saluté!

Babka

2009-06-23T12:28:00.008+12:00

I love bread, but there's bread and then there is bread with chocolate (aka chocolate babka).. a rich, buttery brioche loaf swirled with a decent quality chocolate and brushed with egg. I invited over an old friend for a late morning cuppa and this was just the thing for the rainy Saturday a few weeks back.

Baked in a parchment lined stoneware (my favourite) loaf pan, it's tempting to remove it from the oven before it is baked. If it seems to be browning too much or too quickly for your liking, a bit of aluminium foil over the top will do the trick.

I suspect it might but honestly cannot tell you if this makes good toast or not.

ciao!

March, April and May

2009-06-19T05:08:00.004+12:00

My, time flies. Especially when the link to the internet is not functioning. It has left me with an, albeit, pleasant reunion with the telephone and the bill for toll calls to match. Nonetheless, hearing a familiar voice, even though it is miles away, is comforting.

Comfort and comfort food has been what the past few months (and their below average temperatures) have been about. Spring has been teasing (and I am still not sure it has entirely arrived) and summer well.. let's just say that the garden is in and a few rogue frosts have culled my fig harvest before it started.

Canadian winters, though glorious in their sparkling snow covered arrival, can be a stubborn, stubborn thing to leave. So making the most of it with baked treats and slow cooked dishes to warm the soul are in order. Just the thing for those lucky folk in the Southern hemisphere right about now.

This is a standby when summer fruits haven't yet arrived or are long since past.. Banana maple upside down puddings.

If you are in need of extra warming, adding little rum in the caramel and in the cake (a Tbsp or so for each) adds a subtle flavour.

computer woes and buckwheat pancakes

2009-02-24T19:23:00.000+13:00

Eating pancakes for shrove tuesday and meatballs for mardigras.. hopefully this posting drought will be sorted soon with The Return of the new and improved pc.

Hope everyone is enjoying carnevale, mardigras and shrove Tuesday. More to follow.

cheers!

The Takeover tomatillo

2009-01-17T17:07:00.004+13:00

It's been cold. For someone who has spent the past 5 Christmas seasons in warmer climes, this -10C business (nevermind -20!) is for the birds. At least they can fly south.

Speaking of the south, we're certainly in the spirit. My lovely Mexican neighbour has been home visiting family for the past month and has brought me back some special tequila. That means it's time to get out the space heater and warm up the lounge to abnormal levels. We'll make a few Mexican favourites and for the perfect condiment, I've got just the thing in the cellar.

Roasted tomatillo salsa.

A few years ago, I planted some tomatillo seeds. That year, I had tomatillos here and there throughout the garden (courtesy of some 'helpful' squirrels methinks).. and this year past, there were tomatillos for the world! The takeover tomatillo, given the right conditions, will do just that- take over the garden much to my suocero's distain. He apreciates my efforts in the garden, but, according to his way of thinking, if it doesn't turn red there must be something wrong with it.

Nothing wrong with this salsa courtesy of Rick Bayless.

Slathered on chicken tucked into warm corn tortillas and amazing with pork and bean stuffed panuchos.. it's savoury, tangy and can be made from mild to wild depending on preference. Not wanting to undermine the zesty contribution it adds to these dishes, I don't go too crazy and only add the required fresh serranos for flavourful heat. It's a spectacular fresh salsa but with a few alterations, can be canned as well.

It has turned into our Saturday family barbeque favourite. So if you are enjoying a Southern hemisphere summer, make a pitcherful of margaritas and give it a go! But if you, like us, find yourself in the chilly North this January, simply up the heat a bit with a small chile and add it to fried eggs in tortilla or go all out with a full Mexican menu. It's restorative stuff.

Cheers!

La Befana

2009-01-05T11:23:00.002+13:00

It's been a busy holiday here at la tavola. The culinary good times, visiting family and midnight mass have kept us awake around the clock but, here it is the 5th of January and it isn't over yet.

La Befana visits tonight.

Who?

La Befana (I'll leave a few links here), like Santa, comes through the chimney and leaves good children pressies, typically in the form of sweets, under the bed. Unlike Santa, however, she is not a jolly old soul dressed in red. She's an old lady, usually portrayed with a long crooked nose, one tooth, dressed in tattered clothes, covered in soot and flying around on a broomstick.

No, we haven't had too much liquid cheer nor have we confused Christmas with Halloween, it's the celebration of the Epiphany and this witch-like character is part of the fun.

Also part of the celebration of the Epiphany is the making of the crown shaped panettone. I'm not sure how this got an invite to the party but it's a tradition that is a tasty one too. And since it's one of the few times a year that cake for breakfast is not only acceptable, it's expected, I'm in.

Many cultures make symbollic sweet treats for this time of year. Our immediate community is wonderfully multicultural and there are delicious olliebollen, Kolach, and various poppyseed delights that grace our door courtesy of our Dutch, Ukrainian and Polish neighbours.

As good as it is with a decent lathering of butter, it's also good torn up and immersed in a sweet caffé with milk.

What you do with yours is up to you.

Crown Bread - recipe to follow.

Cheers!

Best for 2009

2009-01-03T00:53:00.004+13:00

Not your typical New Years Eve.. we hadn't really planned anything but we were prepared. After a couple of friends dropped in (while we were shucking a box of PEI oysters) we enjoyed a pitcher of that distinctly Canadian concoction: Caesars.

Caesars are Clammato juice based (just like it sounds, a mixture of tomato and clam juices, only it tastes better), used to top up a healthy shot of (unflavoured) vodka over ice, seasoned to taste with worchestershire and tobasco sauces in a celery salt rimmed and celery stick adorned glass. It's a uniquely tangy, savoury and slightly spicy mixture in a world of predominately sweetish cocktails and an unlikely, albeit unappetising to some, taste combo to which I'll admit to having developed a slight addiction.

Variations of the Caesar, mainly in the form of garnishes, abound across the Great White North and, regardless of what you fancy (a spritz of lemon/lime or a teaspoon of horseradish!) added to yours, it's rumoured to be the best hangover prevention/cure this side of the border. Still, if the stats are correct, a nation of 30 or so million people are drinking 250 million Caesars a year, I'd dare say that they might have the cure confused with the cause.

The Caesar was a natural lead in to the oysters that we were preparing. Now while I generally think that Wild Malpeque and Raspberry Point oysters might be better off with bubbly, I paired them with Dog Point Sauvinon blanc and Marston's Oyster Stout. A perfect example of how delectable food matches can be made from both grain and grape.

The Dog Point is not your typical NZ Sauvignon blanc (cat's pee and green grass), rather it's remarkably citrusy (mostly lime) with a slight passionfruit edge, a richness conveyed through palate weight coupled with tropical fruit that I find quite enjoyable with the Malpeques. A bit more brine in the Raspberry Point oysters prompted me to the beer fridge and Marston's for that hit of hops to counter the added umami factor.

Nonetheless, Sauvignon happily reminds me of many a Southern hemisphere New Years Eve, the sub zero temperatures of the Canadian winter make for perfect stout weather.

With appetites waking up thanks to the oysters' brininess, the zip of the Sauvvy and dry finishing stout, I got to work preparing the chicken in Yucatecan spices. I'd marinated chicken breasts with an unmistakebly Mexican mixture of vinegar, herbs, spices and roasted garlic that were now ready for the grill. With the chicken, tortillas and condiments set out, we helped ourselves buffet-style and washed the soft, spicy tortillas down with a variety of different beers.

Between visits and phone calls, we rang Italy earlier in the afternoon to wish family Happy New Year, then close friends in Mexico and finally on to New Zealand who'd already had 18 hours of 2009, we are reminded of the people that touch our lives and that distance is nothing when those people are in your heart.

And to you, dear reader, wherever you may be, I hope your 2009 is filled with many a joyous occasion and lots of love.

Buon Anno!

La tavola Calabrese

2008-12-25T11:30:00.001+13:00

It's that time of year.. and there's always something interesting on the Calabrese Christmas table.

From the numerous biscotti and amaretti that typically accompany most special occasions to the simplest of fresh and dried delights, the table, surrounded by friends and family, is never bare. For this and all our blessings, we are eternally thankful.

Hope you are spending this festive season in a similar fashion with your loved ones.

Buon Natale!

Mince by any other name

2008-12-19T17:20:00.002+13:00

Would it taste the same?

Mince as I know it (that I get from my butcher) is ground 'chuck'. Chuck steak is as tough as old boots if left in its roast form and, if you ask me, is good for precious little else other than mince. I take that back.. that is, unless you've got 5 years to cook it into a spicy stew or curry. Then, it's gloriously flavourful. Still, with it's natural fat level and inherent texture, it is undeniably the best cut for burgers.

I'm not sure whether it is a health conscious trend or clever marketing (or both) that have led to the use of other cuts that don't have as much flavour as the chuck roast. Round is another common cut that can is used or mince but lacks flavour and the structure can lead to very dry burgers. Fat is often added to round from other cuts/parts to provide that essential fat component. Same with sirloin, it is also commonly used for mince but I don't think that the flavour is improved so much as to warrant the celestial cost per kilo. Choose your beef wisely.

Besides topping toast, at a loss for what to do with versatile mince? How about adding a little spice?

A few months ago, I received some wonderful dried chiles from México. Of these, I use the earthy ancho chiles (ground into a powder) and rehydrated the chipotles in a sauce using vinegar and spices (adobo) for a bit of flavourful kick. You don't need to start this recipe the night before thanks to tinned beans and tinned chipotles now readily available. Don't worry about opening a small tin and only using a few. Once opened, tinned chipotles (with their high acid level), when moved to a plastic container, will last for a long time in the fridge. They are great to add to refried beans, as a marinade for steak filled tortilla or as a condiment for huevos rancheros.

Chilli is a great one pot meal to start on a weekend afternoon either for friends at home or to take along whenever you need a plate for a wintery work do (aka potluck). This recipe can use any mince, but preferably the aforementioned lesser cut of beef with more flavour.

And what would chilli be without beans?? Our Italianised version uses the homegrown equivalent of borlotti beans but kidney beans or a mixture of red and black beans are also good.

The chiles and spices used here are quite fresh and very pungent. The mexican oregano is recently dried from this years harvest. The comino (cumin) and dried chile preparations likely have a bit more bite than their supermarket counterparts. If, using the amounts in the recipe, your chilli seems lacking, you could up the ante a bit with a little more of everything plus the optional cayenne or try mail order for some of these really unique flavours.

For veg, the basic onion, garlic and capsicum mixture make for a great flavour base. Roasted for that rustic smoky flavour is optimal. I've used some of the last of the years sweet sheperds but roasted capsicums (aka sweet bell peppers) are a perfect substitute.

Now, I suppose you could use beef or veg stock but, beer is my choice of liquid to deglaze the pan of any bits the adhere to the pot while browning the beef. Select a beer with some substance because, unlike beer can chicken, this will benefit from using a beer made with darker (but not chocolate) malts. Choose something in the amber colour department that isn't overly hopped. Save the well-hopped goodness to drink, you'll need something to complement the spice (as well as put out the fire).

Chilli for several people:

1 kg minced beef
1 large yellow onion
3-4 green and/or red capsicum (depending on size)
2 cloves of garlic (or more to preference)
1.5L stewed tomatoes
1L prepared beans (and liquid)
3 chipotle peppers and 1-2 Tbsp adobo sauce
2 1/2 tsp dried ancho chile powder
2 1/2 tsp cumin
2 tsp dried oregano
1 1/2 -2 tsp hot smoked paprika (or cayenne pepper) optional
salt and pepper
pinch cinnamon

To a few tablespoons of olive or grapeseed oil, add the chopped onion and garlic and saute until soft (1-2 minutes) and add the mince. Season with salt and pepper and brown the mince lightly then add chopped capsicums, chopped chipotles and spices except 1/2 tsp of oregano and cinnamon.

Add 150-175 mL (or a little more..) of beer to mince, scraping bottom of pot and add the beans and their cooking liquid. Mix and add tomatoes (do not drain).

Allow to simmer on low for a little over an hour. Add remaining spices with adobo and check for seasoning. Adjust salt, pepper and heat, if required.

Serve alongside some crusty bread rubbed with garlic, buttered and/or sprinkled with a favourite cheese. And to drink?

Beer, of course.

Mangia!

Cheeky beef

2008-12-16T01:38:00.003+13:00

Meat pies are so often taken for granted. Always available in one form or another, the humble meat pie has many (plain to gourmet) variations. If somewhere in the south of the South Island is where you call home, you are very fortunate in the meat pie department as there are local Otago interpretations considered to be some of the best that New Zealand has on offer.

It is my personal opinion that 'Who are all the pies?' in Dunedin and 'the fridge' in Alexandra produce some prime specimens.

If you are lucky enough to live there, no doubt you've heard of these fine establishments, if not, I'd be keen to know where you find your favourite pie. When wandering at home or abroad, where to get a good pie is valuable information.

These days, however, unless I were partial to Marks & Sparks or Swansons' frozen specialities, I'm having to make my own. And for me, forget wagyu, THE best cut of beef for pie would have to be cheekmeat.

Cooked slowly and with a moist heat, beef cheekmeat yields some of the most succulent stew or meat pie filling you will ever taste. To locate this fine cut, you'll likely have to locate a butcher.

For a braising liquid, I am partial to a good stock and beer mixture along with all the aromatics: vegetables and herbs. Trim the cheeks of their external connective membranes. Place your knife at the edge of this silvery covering, guide the knife upward and it will separate fairly easily.

Dust the cheeks with seasoned flour and brown them on both sides in a little grapeseed oil. Place then in casserole or dutch oven with some herbs (thyme or a little oregano) and if you'd like to get some veg in, you can also add chunks of carrot, celery, onion wedges and some halved button mushrooms. Cover with braising liquid. Your choice of any favourie beer or wine added to a good stock is all you need.

Cheeks need a few hours to cook. You want the met to shred easily (not completely dissolve into nothing) so as soon as it is possible to pull it apart without too much effort, take it out of the oven to cool. Set the meat (and veg, if using) aside and strain the braising liquid, reducing it a little if necessary. You want it to be thick enough to hold the pie together, a nice amount of gravy but not reduced to glue.

Any favourite savoury pastry will do here. I like something flaky, with enough flavour to stand up to the filling but not too rich. Something in the shortcrust family (here is Grant Kerr's version) works beautifully. Brushed with an eggwash, it will turn glossy and crisp. Some recipes use ready made pastry and suggest using a pre-baked shortcrust base with a puff pastry top.

And to drink: Many beers work well to accompany a meat pie. I usually prefer more of the beer that was put into the braising liquid, something on the darker end of things. I like Bookbinder because I find the hops really balance the richness of the pie and compliments the herbal notes in the gravy. And it's my favourite session ale. In the cooler months, one of the many Belgian inspired styles would be delicious. However, if you are the lucky one to be in the heat of the kitchen, you could justify a few pints of your favourite as well.

Cheers!

Anguria

2008-12-06T11:39:00.003+13:00

'Mangi, beva e lavi la tua faccia'.. is an old Sangiorgese saying and it's also what you do with watermelon.

You eat, drink and wash your face.

Anguria (or zipangulu in dialect) is a summery treat that is as good a reason as any to be envious of anyone travelling in Italy in the late summer. Having finished many a meal with watermelon, it's something that I now associate with our time there. For me, smells and flavours, in particular, conjure up distinct memories.

We'd gone to the market. Usually, I'm the one wandering off.. lured on by the call of a vendor or the glimpse of piles of fresh something or other. But on this day, someone else is missing. While I had certainly noticed the massive watermelons piled at one of the first stalls we passed, I didn't notice one being carried off by my (now absentee) shopping companion.

At an easy 12kg, this wasn't one to be missed. And it was melon perfection, seeds and all. Astonishingly sweet, it tasted of childhood summers at the beach. Forget all the tasteless, seedless specimens you've had in the past. Eat, drink and wash your face - go for the traditional.

I found this photo while perusing the pictures of our 04 trip to Italy and it reminded me of this issue Barbara was having with her local fruit and veg vendor. This was not a problem in the Cittanova weekday market where the lack of a posted price would be a cause of great grief to the vendor. The prices are clearly marked but they are, however, open to negotiation.

This zipangulu's for you Barbara.. We're both hoping that your wishes come true.

Third anniversary cheesecake

2008-12-01T02:27:00.001+13:00

Another year here at la tavola has passed. So just recently, we had a little impromptu 3rd anniversary party.

A. Dessert. Party.

Nothing over the top, just some sweet little bites, a cookie tray and one large pumpkin cheesecake with some whisky scented cream. All washed down, of course,with espresso and a little liqueur.

What good is cake is you can't share it with those that inspire and motivate you? So, I'll post more on the cake soon. For now, here is a photo of Alexandra taken earlier this year. The view is from THE clock that I photographed on la tavola's 2nd anniversary. You can see the Shaky Bridge Café and William Hill vineyard immediately below as well as the Manuherikia River leading to the mighty Clutha. Across the latter is the main street of Alexandra wines, Earnclueugh Road.

Alexandra is a gorgeous town and I highly recommend anyone travelling in the area not to by-pass this nugget of Central gold. If you're headed that way, I'm more than happy to pass on any info from tips on where to eat, the wonderful wine, the characters who grow it and the fabulous walking/biking trails.

Grazie mille for joining me at la tavola for another year!

Fish and Chip Friday

2008-11-28T18:28:00.006+13:00

Every so often, I get that craving. Yes, for fried food of a convenience variety. But not for greasy international chain pizza, not for burgers of the see-through type, not for buckets of chicken and/or fried bits that are made from chicken (or fish) but are named for parts that neither of these species possess. No commercial takeaway will suffice.

Only the local fish and chip shop will do.

Fish and chips, in theory, are quite a simple thing to make, but they are something I typically leave to the experts: those with years of beer batter know-how and a ready source of fresh fish. I had a great-uncle who used to own the best takeaway EVER. The batter he used was possibly the best I've ever had, I was a teenager and it was THE business. Never mind the amount of coaxing that acompanied my first fish and chip encounter (I was four and sad as it seems now) - a cheeseburger was the only thing I could be persuaded to eat.

And while I appreciate good battered fish, no one makes crumbed fish like mum does. Ok, fair to say that the takeaways in Waikouaiti run a close second.. anyway, since I am near to neither, I'm having to do it myself.

I do it her way and organise my prep area for easy frying.. 3 oblong bowls containing seasoned flour, the next with a beaten egg and the last half full of seasoned, herbed breadcrumbs (sometimes a little cornmeal). These (oh, and some fresh local fish) are all you need.

Peanut oil is my fish frying fat of choice and since I am sans deep fryer, I pan fry in an inch or so of oil in a straight sided skillet. When the oil reaches 190C, working quickly, I dust one fillet with flour and immediately into the egg followed by the breadcrumbs. A thermometer works wonders for getting and keeping this temperature spot on. At 190C, the fat is just hot enough to cook one inch thick, haddock in my case, fillet in the time it takes to brown nicely.

Place the crumbed fillet gently into the oil and fry until deep golden around the edges. Flip gently using a spatula to avoid splashing the hot fat. You can cook two at a time but don't overcrowd the pan and make sure the temperature doesn't drop too low. Keeping the frying temperature up is important to achieve that undeniably delicious combination of crisp crumb and moist fish. And best of all, there's no waiting to get home to eat them.

Serve with chips or wedges and your favourite beer.

Cheers!

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November 21st was International Fisheries Day. Here's what Canada is doing.

brutti ma buoni

2008-11-25T15:50:00.000+13:00

Ugly but good.. are cape gooseberries, Physalis peruviana or what are also commonly called ground cherries. I like to eat them as is or in a fruit salad. They also made for a unique garnish on my pumpkin cheesecake and, if you are bored with the same old slice of lemon, physalis look (and taste) great on the edge of a cocktail glass.

Cauliflower risotto

2008-11-22T11:34:00.001+13:00

While cauliflower seems an unlikely suspect for a risotto, it is a very tasty addition. I was reminded of this while browsing Jamie's Italy on line the other day and decided to use up the latest harvest for this very purpose: Mr. Oliver's recipe for cauliflower risotto. My chile plant is quite firey so I eased up on them a bit but still used enough to get that earthy chile flavour essential to a pangrattato. If you aren't into heat, try using less, combined with the anchovies it is surprisingly pungent but not over the top hot.

Risotto is a seasonal favourite in the cooler months. It compliments all autumnal vegetables and its creamy consistency makes the perfect comfort food. Despite cauliflower's 'reputation' for being difficult to grow, I have managed (hurrah) and, this year, grown some prime specimens. Happy days.

Mangia!

Vendemmia 2008

2008-11-19T07:18:00.003+13:00

It isn't about making an award winning wine or competing with any commercial offering.. it's about tradition. The grape harvest and making of the years wine was, and still is my husband's favourite time of year.

He graduated from form to form in the school of home winemaking under the close and watchful eye of his father and uncles. After keeping the bees and wasps at bay as a youngster, he was soon designated to the task of opening the cases of grapes. A few years older and stronger, he carried cases (36-42 lbs) to the crusher and later, proudly helped out with the turning of the torchio (the press).

Nowadays homewinemaking shops abound. You can find wine kits and sterilised juice from all over the winemaking world.. bring the juice to temperature, pitch some yeast and ecco fatto!

But what do we do?

We keep the tradition. We get up very early. There are a few growers around that will allow the harvest of your 'own' grapes (there are also many that will allow you to participate in their harvest) for home winemaking, so we make a few trips to the vineyards over the course of the year and again to pick up the grapes. Then the all day business of crushing, pressing the white grapes (riesling this year) and destemming (by hand) the remaining red begins.

Depending on the weather, the next few days (as the must comes up to temperature) can be somewhat distressing as we make more wine than is logistically possible for us to handle with any real control. We are at the mercy of Baccus and hope that San Martino sends us some manageable weather.

It is a bizzare ritual of worry taking a few weeks to finish. Grapes are pressed midway and the skins saved for, well, that's another post.. Once fermentation is complete, the crude wine is racked (clarified by transferring to clean vessels - demis or carboys) and placed in the cantina. Then it undergoes much the same process as in any biodynamic winery, rackings only proceed when the moon is favourable.

As I write, my nails and fingertips are still faintly purple.. but will likely post this closer to, if not after, San Martino, the Feast of the New Wine.

cheers!

October 6, 2008

A gift.

2008-11-10T14:01:00.001+13:00

Pohutakawa Branch Showing New Growth by P. Hutchinson.

Blood and blood product transfusions are often required by cancer patients to replace crucial components of the blood when they are either lost, not being produced in sufficient quantity or at all. When it comes to cancer, this can be due to the disease or the treatment.

Depending on the type, cancer can cause internal bleeding which can lead to anaemia (too few red blood cells). Forms of the disease that start in or spread to the bone marrow (overtaking the normal blood-making cells) and those that affect organs involved in keeping enough cells in the blood, such as the kidneys and spleen, also increase the need for transfusions.

Most cancer treatments and their side effects impact blood producing cells. Blood loss from surgery may require red blood cell or platelet (blood clotting agent) transfusions. Chemotherapy drugs stress cells in the bone marrow to the point where levels of white blood cells and platelets are so low that the patient is at risk for serious infections or bleeding. Likewise, the large doses of radiation (particularly that given to Marrow Transplant patients) destroys the blood-making cells and lowers blood counts.

While there are drugs that can treat anaemia in cancer patients, they pose another set of risks, are expensive and generally don't work very fast. It may take weeks for blood cells to return to normal or, at least, acceptable levels so that treatment can begin. A half hour of your day to donate blood makes a difference.

This is hoping that people who think that they have nothing to give, give the gift of life.

Australian Red Cross
New Zealand Blood Services
Canadian Blood Services

Google Blood Services in your area for local services and donation locations.

Thank you.
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The Pohutakawa or Christmas Tree is a New Zealand icon. The painting titled Pohutakawa Branch With New Growth is another courtesy of Paul Hutchinson of Taranaki. I like the symbol of the Pohutakawa for this post because of its well-known ability to maintain its hold in the most precarious of positions (National Heritage Collection) and particularly this painting showing the beautiful, pale green leaves of new growth. Until we can make cancer history, both symbolise what I hope for everyone battling this disease: the ability to hold on and the opportunity for a new beginning free of cancer.

Poiselle

2008-11-08T19:07:00.001+13:00

Whenever I think of peas, I'm always reminded of a prof at University who told a story about one of his summer jobs at a large frozen veg producer working on a line processing frozen peas. Peas are light enough to be transported through the process on a bed of air. Until the line has a problem and you are wading knee deep in the vegetable world equivalent of little green marbles.

Commercially frozen veg, peas especially, are processed so quickly after harvest nowadays that they are of really good quality. Spring peas, like everything else, are at their best when fresh but since we have so many and they are easy to freeze, that's what I do. And I use most of my stash this way, adding them to stews or soups. This is not a quick soup (it takes half the day) but can also be made, as convenient, over two days. Starting quite early in the morning, it will be wonderful by teatime.

Like this:

Go to your local butcher and get a smoked ham hock (bone in). Place it in a saucepan (6L), cover it with water and cover the pot. No salt required, there should be plenty in the ham. Proceed to cook the tar out of the ham, or at least until it is springy to the touch. This could take a few hours, mine usually takes almost 4. Once boiling, I reduce the flame to a low simmer and add a few celery stalks, a couple of quartered carrots, a halved onion, a few cloves of garlic, a small bunch of parsley, a bay leaf or two and some black peppercorns. Don't fuss about these veg, just rinse them, chop to fit and add them to the pot. They get strained out anyhow.

This stock is also very good for pumpkin or squash soups too. Almost anywhere you'd add pancetta or bacon to the soffritto, you can use ham broth alone or along with chicken for a milder flavour.

Once the stock is ready (that is, the ham hock is tender enough that the meat will easily peel away but not yet disintegrating), drain it and set the strained broth in the fridge for about an hour or so (or overnight). After cooling, skim off any fat that separates. This step is only necessary if you care to remove the fat. There usually isn't heaps but as I like to serve the soup with a drizzle of olive oil, I generally remove it.

Place the stock back in the rinsed saucepan, reserving about 2 cups.

Chop or shred the ham meat and set aside. You can do this while the peas are cooking.

Place 3 cups of frozen peas in the broth and allow to cook until quite mushy. Once peas are cooked, purée them with an immersion (or stick) blender. It will still be quite liquid so watch out for hot splatters.

In another small saucepan, sauté a finley diced shallot or small onion in a little olive oil. When softened, add the 2 cups reserved stock and cubed carrot and potatoes. Cook until veg are tender. Remove all but half the potatoes and set aside. Continue cooking remaining potatoes until stock is reduced considerably (keep a close watch not to burn) to the point where the stock darkens slightly to a light amber colour and becomes very thick and sirupy. Add a few tablespoons of white wine to deglaze and add all to the peas and purée again. Then add the cooked cubed veg and the chopped or shredded ham.

This two step cooking of veg and reducing some stock is time comsuming but makes a flavour base that is worth it. However, that's just my preference. After a taste, you can opt not to do this and add all veg to the pea mixture choosing either to blend the lot (or not). I like the consistency that one puréed potato adds to the soup and the contrasting chunky veg and ham.

Finally, reheat soup throughly, add some fresh ground black pepper and taste for salt/seasoning. A little salt might be added if you think its necessary. When serving, drizzle the soup with a little good olive oil and serve with thick cheesy toast.

Mangia!

Leftover love

2008-10-25T17:00:00.007+13:00

Leftovers (soups and stews that benefit from a night of mingling in the fridge) were the love of my life, saving me time and money, while I was at uni and when I first ventured into the workplace. This practise didn't do much to increase the variety in my diet though it did save me from sandwich monotony.

But the fact is that some dishes just don't improve. Take leftover risotto for example.. it never achieves its former glory reheated the day after. The flavours are all there but the texture leaves much to be desired (unless you had to patch a leaky roof). Its gluey texture IS, however, perfect for a magical transformation into wonderful little bites, arancini, perfect antipasti or as a snack with drinks.

Called arancini (little oranges) or, less commonly, suppli al telefono (telephone wires- after the stretchy cheese inside), these are an easy treat. Tuck a smallish cube of your preferred melting cheese into the center of a rounded tablespoon of the leftover risotto. Fontina is a flavourful favourite and gorgonzola is a delicious option over relatively tame-by-comparison scamorza (or domestic mozzarella). Then roll the shaped balls in flour and a quick egg dip before going into a seasoned toasted breadcrumb mixture. Allow to set for a few minutes before frying in 180C oil until golden brown.

The best thing about this dish is that it looks little like leftovers and takes on a new life as a little fritter. If you've no leftovers to play with, you needn't worry. An overdose of risotto isn't necessary.. Here's AGT's arancini recipe. While truffles are an ethereal addition, you could substitute a scant 1/8 tsp of slightly more economical truffle paste into the center with the cheese or even add it (a few teaspoons or so) to the risotto.

Buon appetito!

Finding funghi

2008-10-23T14:07:00.001+13:00

It's that time of year again. The time to go looking for mushrooms. I look forward to hearing "Vuoi cercare i funghi?" every year. Boots on, I am out the door at the mere suggestion of a walk in the woods.

One of my favourite dishes to show off the seasons best is simply mushrooms on toast. Sautéed thick slices in butter with wine, garlic and fresh parsley makes for a quick fungus fix while oven roasting whole seasoned and dressed (with olive oil and rosemary) mushrooms makes for something slightly more posh.

When there is a bounty, we always indulge in an omlette or fritatta of mushrooms, herbs and a gorgeous complimentary cheese for a special weekend breakfast. Taleggio is a great match as are many of the more pungent washed rinds. A mushroom tart with caramelised cipolline and thyme or a filled pasta are worth any effort and are easy make-aheads for entertaining.

On our latest trip, we found a fairly substantial crop of field mushrooms lurking along the fenceline. That means we'll be adding them to dishes alot this week.

Starting with dinner.
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Field mushroom risotto

butter
olive oil
Rice ( I like vialone nano but arborio or carnaroli are good too.)
2 cups of rice, good for 4 mains or 6 entrée serves.
Mushrooms (as many as you like or as many as you've got, wiped clean and sliced as you wish.)
Hot broth/stock (vegetable, beef or chicken all work well here and rabbit is particularly nice.)
1/2 large yellow (or 1 meduim) onion, chopped fine
1-2 cloves of garlic
125mL white wine, approximate
Parmigiano reggiano or Grana padano
Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped fine

Have stock simmering on low heat. In heavy bottomed pot or enamel coated cast iron, melt a tablespoon of butter and add a tablespoon or so of olive oil. When butter is foamy, add the rice (you may need a little more butter) and turn to coat well. Cook rice until it is aromatic and takes on a slight golden hue.

Add a little wine and some stock. Continue to add stock in increments as it is absorbed, enough to keep rice from sticking to pot but not so much that the rice is swimming. Just as needed to keep coaxing the starch out of the rice.

In a sauté pan, over medium high heat, melt another tablespoon or so of olive oil and butter. Lower heat a little and add onions, garlic and mushrooms, cooking until onions and garlic are soft and mushrooms take on a golden edge. Deglaze pan with a splash of wine. While this could be a one-pot procedure, I like being able to better control the browning and the degree of doneness of a mixture of coarsely chopped and finely diced mushrooms.

When rice is done to preference and consistency is creamy but still relatively loose, remove from heat, and using a spatula, add the entire contents of the sauté pan and all cooking juices. Season with salt and pepper, stir in a liberal amount of grated cheese and a few tablespoons of parsley. Pass more cheese at the table, if desired.

Mushrooms work magnificently with many of my favourite 'off-the-beaten-track' wines. I often look for an unoaked (or minimally oaked) Viognier. Unoaked Morton Estate is all ripe peach and texturally wonderful as is Rongopai Ultimo, if you can find it. For something different, if your local carries a Marsanne or Roussanne, give them a go. Like Viognier, I find these rich, complex wines complement the herbs and mild earthiness of the mushrooms and that their acidity easily handles the rich treatment that mushrooms often get. In the red camp, where I often find myself, Te Mata Estate has a great value Gamay noir (the grape of Beaujolais) that is quite mushroom friendly and delicious.

Mangia!

Breakfast galette

2008-10-18T13:08:00.000+13:00

A few months back, some plums arrived at the vineyard.. not a 'commercial' variety from one of the large local orchards, rather some small dark skinned, yellow fleshed plums that I would otherwise call Italian plums, or prugne.

They would have been perfect for drying: not overly juicy but packed with flavour. IF I'd had a dehydrator at my disposal, that is exactly what I would have done. Dry plums, or prunes, are easily rehydrated when the plum season is well past.

The other nice thing about these plums having so little liquid is that they also bake well in a free-form tart, or galette. There is enough juice to make a flavourful tart without massive amounts of seepage.

The pastry can be any favourite pastry, sweet or plain. I like to half this recipe plus add a little finely grated lemon zest and I don't mind if it is made ahead (the night before). I also like to use frozen butter, grating the required weight on a box grater into the bowl containing the flour. After mixing briefly to coat with flour then adding the ice water, I stir it only until the dough just holds together. A quick shaping (into a disk) and into the refrigerator overnight makes for stress free rolling in the morning.

The filling is easy as. In the morning, after rolling out the dough on a floured surface and applying a quick sprinkle of breadcrumbs (or ground almonds), place a pile of the diced fruit (about 1 1/2 c) in the center of the pastry with a liberal sprinkle of caster sugar. I help the edges of the pastry up and over the fruit with my pastry scraper making many, small-ish, and as-even-as possible folds of pastry so no one misses out on a substantial flaky edge on their slice. The whole thing gets another sprinkle of sugar and baked on a stone at 180C until well browned, say 30-40 minutes.

Alongside a steaming latté, a book or newspaper in a sunny spot.. a good morning indeed.

Roll call

2008-10-16T13:00:00.001+13:00

Dinner rolls, brushed with butter, awaiting the oven (16/10/08).

Dinner rolls are something I always look forward to when I visit home. Tender, fluffy morsels that adorn the dinner table, always on special occasions and sometimes just when Ma felt like it. Their aromatic goodness fills the air and I know these are on the menu before I even get in the door.

Although they aren't a traditional staple for the Calabrese table, I decided to make them the other morning for a little something different for World Day of Bread and also because I' ve seen my suocero put away a few of these at festive events held at various banquet halls. For him, I suppose these seem almost cake-like in comparison to the bread roll to which he is accustomed.

Enriched with milk, butter and egg yolk, these are slightly reminiscent of brioche and are lovely with preserves for breakfast they day after they are made. Still, they aren't sweet and are very good for soaking up gravy from a weeknight roast as we did.

Mangia!

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Recipe for Ma's milk rolls to follow.

Tagliatelle

2008-10-10T17:08:00.004+13:00

Only a short hour ago, these silken tagliatelle were but a few eggs in the pantry and flour in the cupboard. The pasta was served al prosciutto (with ham) in another quick sauce.

I like minimalist 'sauces' and go for delicate flavours to showcase and complement the texture of fresh, homemade pasta. However, in your house, if pasta isn't pasta without a rich meaty sauce, ragu alla bolognese would be just as good.

Mangia!

Glut

2008-10-06T20:37:00.002+13:00

glut: noun
1: an excessive quantity

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According to my Oxford Dictionary, yes indeedy, I have a glut of zucchini.

Heaps, hoardes, tonnes aplenty.. small ones, big ones, ones that have eluded my garden knife (obscured by huge leaves) and are now ginormous! I've tried giving them away, abandoned a few on doorsteps.. but if I am to pawn away an oversized vegetable on unsuspecting neighbours, perhaps my green friend needs a disguise. All means of trickery are fair.

So, that's what I did. And I think it the perfect disguise. (No, not a hat, fake moustache and dark glasses. That's for potatoes.) I have spent all day turning my vegetables into perfect-with-tea (or coffee) loaf cakes (aka zucchini bread).

Wot? Bread with zucchini in it? Yep. That's what ma does. When there are way too many to simply eat as is (without turning into a zucchini), she shreds them up on the box grater and mixes the pale green shards into a dark dense batter (usually with walnuts, cinnamon, and cocoa). The result is a spice and chocolate scented loaf cake not unlike banana bread with its moist texture. But since zucchini is much more of a blank slate than banana, these could be spiced with cinnamon, cardamom, 'plain' vanilla or blended with added chocolate, walnuts or sultanas, as you wish.

I'm a sucker for loaf cakes.. lemon sirup, banana, any berry in season, strusel topped or enriched with honey.. you name it. If it can be baked in a lowly unassuming loaf pan, I'm in.

Now, I have a glut of zucchini cake.. and I'm off to the neighbours with my well camoflouged vegetable.

Ma's Zucc Loaf

Beat 2 eggs until foamy and mix in 2/3 cup of vegetable oil. In another bowl, mix 1 and 1/4 c sugar with 4 Tbsp of sifted unsweetened natural cocoa.

Make sure cocoa is lump-free and blend into egg oil mixture.
In another bowl, shred zucchini, you'll need 1 1/3 cup of the grated stuff. Although Ma used to drain this, I grate it last as I don't want it to lose all its moisture but don't add any liquid that does drain in the process..

Sift 2c flour, 1/4 tsp salt, 1/4 tsp (level) baking powder and 1/2 tsp level baking soda. 2 tsp spices (I used cinnamon to accompany the chocolate but have used a scant tsp cardamon when not using chocolate for a subtle flavour).

Have loaf pan ready. Either a tin lined with parchment and/or greased and floured or a stoneware pan lightly greased around the edges.

Fold shredded zucchini into egg and oil then sifted flour mixture. Don't overmix, fold in flour until just mixed. I also grate some chocolate on the box grater, like 1/3 cup of the good stuff and add with the flour.

Bake at 165C (325F) for about 1 hour. My oven takes a little longer. Approximately an hour and 10-15 minutes. A toothpick will come out cleanish, perhaps with slightly moist crumbs (not goo). Let cool for 5-10 minutes and ease out of pan onto rack to cool. Slice a few pieces and pick the one with the biggest chocolately bits..

Boil the jug.

Roadside Asparagus, honest.

2008-10-04T02:54:00.000+13:00

Two spears of asparagus on a plate. Artist: P. J. Hutchinson

Spring is nigh.. and it's accomplice, asparagus, is never far behind. I look forward to the arrival of this vitamin laden vegetable every year. Part of it is the varied reppetiore that asparagus is able to play.. lemon and asparagus pasta, chicken breasts stuffed with tender, fresh asparagus stalks and gruyére, an asparagus tart with cheese and smoked trout or salmon.. or simply grilled topped with a poached egg and served with shavings of parmigiano reggiano.

The other part of my asparagus obsession lies with the complimentary wines. While asparagus dishes lend themselves so well to the spring-iest of grapes, Sauvignon Blanc, they are also a good cause for breaking out a special bottle of local sparkling or sourcing out one of the handful of delicious NZ Sémillon.

Lastly, I enjoy gathering the asparagus. Not out in a field as you may think but rather during many a leisurely cycle through the undulating back roads of Hawera, Normanby, Okaiawa and Tawhiti. There is always a roadside stall to stop at and, as there is no better time, I always do. There is no one around, just piles of fresh picked asparagus and a small box with a few coins.

The honesty box is still fairly common in NZ agricultural regions even in 'this day and age'. It is the system by which I also buy berries in summer and mushrooms in autumn. The prices are nothing short of a bargain and even though I always leave proper change, it still feels a little bit like theft.

So, because I never get to say it, thank you to the growers of Taranaki Asparagus!
(03/09/06)

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The photo above, illustrating the painting entitled "Two spears of asparagus on a plate", appears courtesy of Paul Hutchinson of Taranaki. His unique and beautiful work is available for viewing and sale on his blog, Postcard from Puniho. Thank you Paul.

Simple guilty kitchen pleasures

2008-09-30T13:45:00.002+13:00

I recently read, in some famous chef's bio somewhere, that one of the end of service treats was to mop up the pan juices with a slice of bread accompanied by a cold beer.

Does this mean I'm ok?

Hi, I'm an addicted cleaner of pans. For years now, I've justified the uncontrollable sopping up of simmered sauce remnants with bread as just good quality control. I recognise that rationalisation of obsessive or compulsive (or both) actions are typical warning signs that I might have a problem because it doesn't end there.

There are also the pan juices of roasted or sautéed meat, the aromatic herbal oil from potatoes, those few drops left in the mussel pot, frypans where I've *gulp* browned butter (a shameful favourite - I blame years of deprivation during a near decade of training), or the little bit of extra browned cheese around the edges of ANYTHING.. it's terrible really, and if theres a little bit of bread lying around, flatbread, olive panini.. makes no difference, I'm away. I have no restraint.

The pot, after making this sauce (a wonderful long-simmered salsa di capra destined for the worker's lunch) was not spared.

I'm through making excuses and, after reading that I'm not alone, am learning to accept that there will be days when this weakness will get the better of me. But just so you know, as limited as my willpower may be in this regard, this guilty kitchen pleasure DOES make washing up much, much easier.

Hail Caesar!

2008-09-26T09:08:00.003+12:00

My brother-in-law, Domenico, loves salad and his favourite is a garlicky, anchovy and bacon laden Caesar salad. Regardless of the ingredient list, it's easy as but so rich that I rarely make it. Occasionally though, as an accompaniment to a pizza night, a barbeque (grilled rib-eyes or lemon marinated chicken kebabs), as a bed for grilled prawns, or Dom's 50th Birthday, this is the salad I go for.

Cos (romaine) lettuce is THE green for Caesar. Well-chilled, crisp leaves are the perfect foil for the richness of the substantial dressing: an egg yolk and oil concoction.

No store bought, dry, bland toothbreaking croutons here. It's so simple to rub seasoned wheat bread with garlic, spray down with olive oil and cut into cubes then brown in a 180C oven (or under the grill, watch closely!) until toasty. Just make sure that these are added last as the dressing will quickly be the undoing of your efforts.

Bacon. Good streaky bacon. Use a brand with a short ingredient list for best flavour. Although I've seen recipes for Caesar without this little addition, I always use it. Fried or oven baked until crisp then crumbled over this salad, bacon is a very complimentary and savoury addition. Back in the day when all that came out of fried bacon was fat (and not the virtual ocean of salty water released by some supermarket brands), my auntie (moderation not being in her vocabulary) used to fry the croutons in the rendered bacon fat. They tasted great but I'm happy with my olive oil.

And the cheese. Parmigiano reggiano, grated or shaved over the top, is essential.

The dressing (this makes enough dressing for 2 good sized heads of cos):

2-3 large cloves of coarsely chopped garlic (for a less pungent flavour, you could roast them or use a combination of raw and roasted),
a generous teaspoon of dijon mustard,
a dash of worcestershire sauce,
a teaspoon of red wine vinegar (any wine or cider vinegar really),
a few tablespoons (2-3) of lemon juice (to taste)
a couple of anchovy fillets (to taste)
a few tablespoons (3-4) of finely ground parmigiano reggiano, and
a whole egg (the egg can be added raw or placed in water and brought to a boil for 1 minute and scraped out of its shell).

Using a stick blender, I add the oil (1/2 c or more to preference) and when blended, I stir in another tablespoon of finely ground parmigiano reggiano for texture. The dressing can easily be tweaked to personal taste. You might have noticed that I didn't list anchovies as optional (as most recipes do) and I would encourage even non-anchovy lovers to try them here where they enrich this dressing with their subtle savoury saltiness. A little salt would be required if not using them.

Immediately before serving, dress the washed and torn cos with the crumbled bacon and croutons, mix and garnish with a few shards of (or more grated) Parmigiano reggiano.

Buon cinquantesimo Domenico!

Muffin monday

2008-09-22T15:29:00.009+12:00

Possibly the easiest banana chocolate chip muffins in the world??

I think so.

1c mashed banana (about 2 medium)
approximately 1c mayonnaise (in 1 Tbsp of vinegar)
3/4c sugar
2 c all purpose flour
2 tsp baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt.
1c best chocoate chips

Place the tablespoon of vinegar in the 1c measure and add mayonnaise, blending until 1c is full.
Using hand mixer, blend banana, mayo (with added vinegar) and sugar until creamy and well blended. I use apple cider vinegar.
Add all-purpose flour sifted with 2tsp baking soda already added.

Begin to mix dry ingredients into the banana mixture until they just begin to come together and then fold in 1 c chocolate chips. Do not over mix batter. Place in a paper lined muffin tray and bake immediately in a 180C oven, approximately 20-25 minutes.

When baked, these will spring back when lightly pressed. Remove from pan and place on rack to cool. These are easier to peel out of the paper liners when cool (avoiding the need to gnaw some of the muffin off the paper..) and allows for better development of the banana flavour.

Great with mid-morning coffee.

Fish Guide revisited.

2008-09-20T02:48:00.010+12:00

A few years ago, I wrote a tiny bit on the NZ Best Fish Guide. It seems that a few other people have also been thinking about the sustainability of the fishing industry lately.

Here's the updated version of the Guide to help Kiwis make decisions about the consumption of local seafoods. http://www.forestandbird.org.nz/bestfishguide/

It takes a great deal of research to assemble these guides. I agree that anyone selling food should know something of its origins and that it is best to frequent establishments that can help you put something more palatable on your plate. However, even knowledgable and responsible fishmongers and wait staff are not the people who determine policy or allocate the funding for continued research into sustainability of our resources.

While the mere mention of politics generally causes me to lose my appetite, I have to say it:

Sustainability needs to become an election issue and elected governments need to support departments and conservation groups who 1) allocate research and resource protection funding and 2) those that determine environmental and foreign trade policies. For so broad a problem, the solutions will be multifaceted.

Fishing methods that have minimal impact need to be evaluated and applied across all species. Our ocean borders need protection from overfishing by foreign fleets. Consideration needs to be given to the sensitivity of fish stocks when including their access in lucrative foreign deals. The state of the fishing industry also depends on ocean transport and the removal of other resources from beneath our ocean floors (impacting feeding grounds, breeding and migratory patterns) as well as many land based activities. Much of the damage to our oceans has been caused by years of thinking that the ocean simply 'carries away' all that we can dump into it. Even if fish are plentiful, we have to consider the impact of introduced species on their health and the effect of industrial and marine effluent on food safety and toxicity. Also to consider are the involvement and possible alternatives for the regional fisheries workers whose living depends on it.

From an all round environmental, economic and humanistic standpoint, the sustainability of our edible ocean resources needs to come to the forefront.

Here's how the NZ system works.

Unlike our fish stocks, the debate as to whether it's too late or not can go on forever. Whether you live in a small coastal town where you still get fish from the wharf, are a rural consumer trying to wade through the plastic packages of supermarket offerings or are an inner city dweller with no connection to the fishing industry save for noticing the rising prices of Chilean seabass on your favourite restaurant menu.. I think it is unquestionable that the situation is grim. We do know what our actions of the past 50-100 years have achieved and logically, continuing along the current path can only cause the situation to worsen.

Eating as local as possible is one way to reduce stress on the planet and increase the freshness of your food. And when you cannot, making informed choices about where your all your food comes from and how it is grown and harvested is the best way to minimise the impact and ensure that sustainable products are the ones that are in demand. Where there is a demand, other producers will follow suit.

So how can the local species swim forever?

Consider the big picture: use your guide, ask where your fish comes from and VOTE accordingly.

TIAKINA NGA TAONGA O TANGAROA: The phrase comes from the title of a report by the New Zealand Fisheries Task Force (1992): Sustainable Fisheries: Tiakina nga Taonga a Tangaroa.

Photo credits: André Gallant (unless otherwise specified).

basta pasta

2008-09-15T23:42:00.004+12:00

Surprise! We had pasta for tea last night. Ok, so that really isn't an epic revelation seeing how we eat heaps of pasta. Something's amiss if we don't have pasta at least 2-3 times per week. Comfort food, I guess (someone's been packing a sad since Reggina's loss to Chievo).

So first, the pasta: fileja. Fileja is a traditional Calabrese pasta 'fatta in casa' (usually made in the home). It is similar to pici (Toscano) and various other regional styles of egg-less pasta that are rolled by hand. This was a second solo attempt at making the fileja (the first wasn't a huge success). For me, it's more difficult than ravioli or rolling and cutting other egg pastas and I find the trick is all in the texture of the dough. There is a definite knack to this puppy.

To prepare the pasta: mound the flour on your work surface and add enough water to form a dough. Per pound of (I prefer a fine semolina) flour, I add about 250mL of water. This amount can vary depending on the humidty in your kitchen and the moisture level in your choice of flour. Knead until smooth and allow to rest for 30 minutes covered with a tea towel. After this rest, knead again for several minutes. Take a small piece of dough, and make a short rope, about 3 inches long and 1/2-inch in diameter. Repeat with the remaining dough. Gently (using only light pressure from your fingertips) roll each piece around a skewer or knitting needle to form the fileja (a loose fusilli or 'casarecci' shape). Slide (some light coaxing might be required) the pasta from the skewer and allow it to rest for 30 minutes.

And the sauce. With it's long twist, this pasta is a perfect hiding spot for any sauce. But a long simmered sugo, made even more rich by the addition of lamb ribs (stewing or neck bones work well too), is the business. Using the 'lesser' cuts of lamb adds an extra degree of flavour (that only these bits can) and an unctuous quality to the sauce. I find it results in a sauce that coats the pasta even more luxuriously.

Cook pasta in well-salted water until desired doneness and mix with a light coating of sauce. Pass grated Parmigiano or Pecorino (or an aged Crotonese if you have it) at the table. Divine with merlot or a merlot cab blend.

And finally: the vino. We chose the above 3 Hawkes' Bay beauties to try with dinner. I preferred the 04 Trinity with it's bit of age to accompany the pasta (and the ribs) but the more youthful and fruitier Church Road and Mills Reef worked best with the cheese (more lovely aged Pecorino) and were the favourites among everyone else. Another new world wonder to try, especially with lamb, is Pascual Toso Merlot from Argentina.

Saluté!

Photo credit: Vallebona Sardegnian Specialties

Pear shaped meatballs..

2008-09-08T03:48:00.001+12:00

No, not really, but that's the way the experiment went. I started out wanting to make something greek inspired, flavour-wise. I had ground lamb, black olives, lemons, brined goat feta, oregano, aubergines, fresh tomatoes, cucumbers, thick yoghurt and a huge bouquet of fresh mint and dill..

Easy right?

Not so much. I started with meatballs, I had herbal lemony lamb skewers in mind but that didn't happen. Instead of roasting a small aubergine, I used up some extra baba ghanouj (in the meatballs) and some smashed, pitted black olives (also in the meatballs) plus the usual suspects of egg and breadcrumbs in 500g of ground lamb.

Then, I might have got a little carried away: I zested a lemon, added the juice and seasoned it with oregano, dill, salt and pepper, a little crushed garlic, few more black olives and I shared a splash of white wine (Domaine Costantin Lazaridi Amethystos 2006 - a lovely sauv/sem blend) from my glass.

After all this, it tasted great, but no way was my little bit-o-lamb going to stay in meatball form.

Solution: Little individual 'greek' meatloaves. I set the oven to 180C, filled 4 ramekins with the wildly fragrant mixture and baked them until the tops were golden.

Alongside fresh pita, sliced tomatoes and olive oil, crumbled feta and more kalamata olives.. I turned out the meatloaf and served it with a dollop of homemade tsaziki.

What's Greek for 'mangia'?

and sides..

2008-09-08T00:52:00.004+12:00

Baba ghanouj

2008-09-02T11:42:00.004+12:00

Baba ghanouj: One of our favourite dips when there are too many melanzane. This recipe is the first one I ever used, however, since then, I've (never made it the same way twice) adjusted the levels of everything. I prefer to roast the eggplant whole until it collapses, add more olive oil to the actual dip and completely omit the water. And some days that's different again, I experiment and use more lemon for tartness, tahini for earthiness or less of everything to better taste the star ingredient. Just don't be shy with the salt.

Adapted from "Lebanese Cuisine" by Madelain Farah

1 large eggplant (Western, "globe" variety or Italian works here)
Olive oil to taste
1-2 large cloves garlic, roughly chopped
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
2-4 tablespoons tahini (roasted sesame) paste
1/4 cup water
Juice of 1/2 or whole lemon, to taste

optional garnishes: chopped parsley, pomegranate seeds, black olives

Preheat oven to 200-225C. You can simply pierce the skin of your eggplant(s) and roast whole or you can slice the eggplant in half, lengthwise, and place on a baking sheet. Either way, roast until flesh is extremely tender and thoroughly cooked, about 1 hour. If you've sliced yor eggplant check it frequently and if the halves seem to be drying out, brush with olive oil. Remove from oven and allow to cool slightly. (They can also be roasted in advance and put in the fridge overnight.)

With a spoon, scoop/scrape out flesh and place into the bowl of a food processor (a stick blender also works well). Add garlic and salt, and puree gradually, using pulse setting. Add tahini and pulse. Finally add lemon juice, and pulse-purée. Taste for salt and tartness, and adjust according to preference.

Use any fresh bread, pitta or other flatbread you like to mop up this wonderfully savoury dip.

Melanzane

2008-09-01T04:35:00.001+12:00

I've got heaps of melanzane, aubergine or eggplant.. whatever you may call them. HEAPS.

And I'm not afraid to use them.

More later.

At the beach..

2008-08-30T04:32:00.002+12:00

Are YOU talking to ME?

Seasonal treats from Taranaki

2008-08-26T11:52:00.002+12:00

I do like this sauce. And here, if possible, is a richer version courtesy of Mr. Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall. Many of the recipes from the BBC show are now part of my autumn reppetoire. Maybe it's just a welly wearing man in the garden that does it for me.. as odd as that sounds, but it's so bad that the mere sight of the perfect sized squash makes me salivate for this wonderful no-pot soup.

If you've never seen the show, never tried any of the River Cottage recipes, or never had a browse through the books (both available at most libraries, which are generally free), frankly, Hugh is worth at least that much effort. Even if it's just a peek at the online content, I'd encourage anyone with access to field and farm fresh produce (or a friend who still has a bit of bounty from their walnut tree) to have a look.

Simple and seasonal good eats.

Zuie

2008-08-23T10:36:00.003+12:00

'Zuie' or zuille are a Calabrese honey based biscuit of which there are numerous interpretations. Early recipes for a similar cookie, more commonly called mostaccioli, were likely a simple batter made with honey (probably fig or citrus), flour, a little olive oil and maybe a bit of liqueur for added flavouring.

From these beginnings, the recipes have evolved to contain anything from candied peel and nuts to exotic spices and even butter. Some are cut into animal shapes and some are sliced into a more familiar form. Typical versions are still predominately sweetened with honey, with the teeniest amount of fat and usually flavoured with cinnamon and/or clove. I like the version that is most like the one I've bought in San Giorgio Morgeto, honey-scented, studded with almonds and twice baked.

Terese's 'Zuie'

2 eggs

2 oz vegetable shortening

1 3/4 c brown sugar

8 oz honey

8 oz almonds

1 tsp baking soda

flour to make a stiff dough

Have about 2 - 2 1/2 cups of flour sifted with the baking soda into a large bowl (you could add a bit of cinnamon or ginger if desired). Make a well in the center. In another bowl, beat 2 eggs with a fork or whisk until blended and slightly foamy.

Carefully melt shortening, honey and sugar in saucepan over low heat. Stir almost constantly so not to burn. When all is melted and there are no sugary bits remaining, set aside to cool. When mixture is still slightly warm, add eggs and then add all (almonds too) to the bowl containing the flour. Stir and fold to incorporate flour. Mixture will come together quickly but more flour may be required. Dough should be stiff but not dry and smooth but not glossy.

I like biscotti that are about the size of the one in the photo and this is achieved by dividing the dough into 3 or 4 sections and forming the logs on parchement lined baking trays (but you can make a dantier biscotti if you wish). I usually bake these one third at a time in my small gas oven at 180C for about 25 minutes. Cookies will be dark and set when done. You can toothpick test the thickest part to ensure there is no gooey batter remaining. Remove from the oven and when cool enough to handle, cut into 1.5- 2cm widths (or to your preference).

When all are baked and sliced, place in the still warm oven (gas off or with only the heat of the pilot) just to dry slightly and firm up. These aren't meant to be toothbreakers, but solid enough to withstand an espresso dunking.

Note: This recipe is also easily doubled. In this post, it has been reduced (to the best of my ability) because the true original makes biscotti for a small army.

Pasta fresca

2008-08-21T18:06:00.002+12:00

These wee ravioli are a simple taste treat. Dressed only with a diced yellow tomato, a drizzle of good olive oil (the best is an oil with slightly buttery characteristics), a scatter of tender baby basil leaves and the barest sprinkle of parmigiano reggiano, they make a nice light first course.

Everything tastes best when it is still garden warm but if that's not a possibility, start with room temperature tomatoes, premixing them with the oil, basil and seasoning and then the hot ravioli. The cheese is the final touch.

Buon appetito!

Breakfast of champions

2008-08-20T03:35:00.010+12:00

Watching the Olympics now and then (waiting patiently for the triathalon..) and this morning it was diving: the Men's 3m springboard event.

I love to watch the Chinese divers, true technicians of their sport, in their quest to achieve medals for their country. The Russian (a 30-something) veteran, having competed in a total of 5 Olympic Games, is a sentimental favourite. The Australian father of two who has come out of retirement (and deferred medical studies) to compete and the young but accomplished (silver medalist in Athens) Canadian from Montréal.. both with an eye on the podium.

So what's for a gold medal hopeful breakfast?

Buttermilk pancakes with quick sticky apples.

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Pancakes (makes 6):

1 1/2 c all purpose flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
pinch salt
2 Tbsp caster sugar
1 1/2 c buttermilk (or sub whole milk with 1 1/2 Tbsp vinegar in the measure)
2 eggs
1 tsp vanilla
2 Tbsp melted butter

Blend dry ingredients. Beat eggs in bowl, add buttermilk and vanilla. Add to flour mixture and stir briefly. Swirl in melted butter. Combine mixture until just blended. Don't overmix. It will start to raise slightly in the bowl. Ladle out about 1/2 c mixture onto lightly greased frypan and spread out slightly to make a 12cm-15cm pancake or leave as thick as you like. When uncooked surface is dotted with bubbles and edges look dry but not too brown, flip and resist the urge to flatten. The leavening action of the baking powder is still at work and any squashing at this point will deflate any and all hopes of pancake fluffiness.

This batter can also hold approximately half a cup or so of mashed banana, a few tablespoons of ricotta or the substitution of 1/4 c of the flour for 1/4 c whole grain flour. Other nice additions, depending on your choice of fruit for the sauce, are a bit of zest (orange or lemon) and a pinch of cinnamon. They are also wonderful with a variety of fresh fruit and a dusting of icing sugar.

But for more autumnal/wintery pancakes.. quick sticky apples.

Have ready about 1 apple per person. Peel if desired. Apples can either be cut in half and sliced lengthwise or widthwise into rings. Rings are pretty but I like the thin slices best. You can cut thick slices if you prep and cook the sauce in advance.

Over med high heat, melt ~2 tablespoons of butter in sauté pan and sprinkle in 2-3 tablespoons of brown or demerrera sugar (or any combination of maple sirup, apple cider and brown sugar) over the melting butter. Add sliced apples and turn to coat. This amount of butter and sugar is good for about 2 large-medium or 3 small apples. Apple cider or cloudy apple juice can also be added to to up the apple ante. I like a few tablespoons (a splash or so) along with the sirup to lend a bit more fruity sweetness.

Cook over medium heat until all is bubbly and starting to thicken slightly. Use a spatula to gently help coax all the glorious sticky apple sauce over the pancakes.

When in season, Central peaches (my favourite), nectarines or plums all work really well. Sugar can be adjusted accordingly (if used at all) as these fruits are softer and sweeter than your average apple. I slice 2-3 peaches fairly thinly, half a centimeter or so, add to the butter with only a tablespoon of brown sugar (just enough to boost the level of caramelisation) and finish with a squeeze of half a peach just for a little added juice. Summer in a sauté pan.

Still, for the purist, nothing but maple sirup will do. For me, these used to merely serve as vehicle for the ingestion of as much sirup as is possible by an 8-year old.. Even though that wasn't yesterday and I have less of a sweet tooth nowadays, I remember it well.

I also remember the Olympics in Moscow.. I begged for a trampoline (years before they became standard issue) and cartwheeled around the back section for hours on end after watching the gymnastic events. Golden grass-stained days.

A new dough

2008-08-15T18:43:00.000+12:00

Last Christmas, I received a copy of Jamie's Italy. Since hardcover cookbooks don't travel well, it remained on the shelf many miles away until recently.

I've been experimenting with doughs. In particular, ones that are slightly more lenient in the making than others. And I've found another winner. This makes heaps of dough (the recipe says 6 medium to 8 mini pizza bases). I found it just right for two good sized pizzas and the refrigerated the remaining half of the dough for later.

I don't normally use '00' flour for pizza but had just enough on hand (and decided to follow the recipe for once). The semolina also added a nice flavour. It's easily mixed in one large bowl with a wooden spoon and as it comes together can be worked with a dough scraper.

We're big on pizza. Especially baking it outside on a stone but that doesn't lend to the thick crust that defines the Calabrese sheet pizza (that coincides with the day that bread is made). I like the thin crust associated with the high heat of a wood-fired oven (or a stone) and some one else prefers the aforementioned loaf of bread with toppings.

Enter this crust. I stretched it out to have a nice edge crust that satisfied the thick crust aficionados amongst us and the center was thin enough for me with a nice crisp, but not crusty, bottom. The other important bit for me is flexibility in the making of the pizza. The remaining half of the dough was sealed in a plastic bag and placed in the fridge for 4 days.

I let the dough come to room temperature before stretching out on a semolina dusted peel. Happy to report that it rose beautifully at the edges and the middle stayed nice and even. Both fresh and refrigerated doughs had that balance of tender/ chewy interior and crisp exterior texture I was after.

Grazie mille Jamie e buon appetito!

Red rice

2008-08-12T00:55:00.000+12:00

A quick action shot of the red rice. A few weeks ago I received a care package from Campeche (México) containing a variety of lovely dried chiles. Some will get ground for seasoning and some will get rehydrated to make flavour pastes.

The latter, an earthy aromatic blend of rehydrated ancho chiles and garlic is what I've just added to some rice and finely diced onion that I sauteed in a butter/oil mixture over a medium high heat until starting to show a little golden hue. I let the chile liquid evaporate/reduce to a near dryness then add a little milk and a few cups of chicken stock with a few teaspoons of dried oregano (and/or thyme would be fine as well) .

In another pan, I roasted a handful of slivered almonds to mix into the finished rice. The flavour and texture of the almonds (crunch!), warmth of the chiles and topped with cooling creamy cubes of avocado makes a great side to roast pork and all the usual suspects.

The old and the new

2008-08-04T05:28:00.000+12:00

Today was a rainy, steam on the windows baking day perfect for making a lovely honey and spice scented loaf cake of Ukrainian origin. To whip the egg whites, I always reach for my copper bowl, a present from my husband while on holiday in the Val d'Aosta. The proximity of that Italian region to France and Switzerland makes for great availability of kitchen and other homeware items that can be difficult to find otherwise. At a mere 4 years old, the bowl looks positively ancient. It's inherent. While some materials are destined to remain youthful (my stainless pasta machine, if properly cared for, should age like Sophia Loren), copper is not so fortunate. In fact, after its first use, it resembled something retrieved from a falling down farmhouse.

A while back (circa 2006), I wrote a draft post about pre-loved cooking implements. Baking to be specific, although old coffee pots, glassware and cutlery (I've got a thing for tiny teaspoons) are not exempt, it's predominately a baking fixation.

I love well seasoned bakeware. I scour consignment and antique shops hoping to find a long forgotten gem that is sadly sitting on a shelf awaiting a new home, a new life, and a return to its former dutiful position of evoking aromatic anticipation and providing sweet and savoury treats to waiting hands.

That said, new (although it must be quality and well built) bakeware also has its place. I'm not of the all too common present belief in disposable consumerism: of buying as cheaply as possible and that when the item is no longer of use, I'll throw it away and aquire a new one. Properly and sturdily made bakeware, stoneware and cast iron, in particular, will last indefinitely, benefiting from the time and care it takes to season it (as will anyone willing and thoughtful enough to take that time).

This makes a lovely moist loaf (I halved the recipe). It browns significantly and has a lovely flavour enhanced with a good smear of butter. Today, since I was feeling like something smoother in texture and simplier in flavour, I left out the raisins, almonds, almond extract, and the orange zest. I also substituted a little extra cinnamon for the cloves, melted butter for the oil (more like Alford and Duguid's Homebaking recipe of the same name) and also used a small proportion of a deeper flavoured (chestnut) honey. The flavour of the coffee gives the final cake a slightly burnt note and, although coffee might seem a logical partner, this cake goes strangely well with a cuppa tea.

Let it rain.

Formaggio a casa

2008-07-31T07:03:00.001+12:00

Making cheese at home is a fair bit of work but, with planning and organisation, not that difficult. In any case, it is well rewarded with fresh warm ricotta.

While there are many things I could do with it, some fresh fruit and a drizzle of honey would be an easy brekky or dessert, straining the whey and making any number of sweets, pastries or savoury pasta fillings.. ricotta is a delicate cheese that lend itself to so many applications.

But, for me, the best accompaniment to fresh ricotta is a spoon.

Ciao!

Subite and not a moment too soon.

2008-07-29T01:53:00.005+12:00

Here at la tavola, we like our beer. As for a definition of that beer.. let's just say that we are very happy that the art of the grain and little green plants extend far beyond the realm of mainstream brews.

And should you be able to get your hands on any of the lambics (gueuze, faro, or fruit styles), you'll clearly see, as well as taste, that there is beauty in diversity. Personally, while not a session contender for me, this kriek (cherry) brew is a bright and flavourful, fruity and slightly tart multi-purpose gem. It does a beauty job to stimulate the appetite as an aperitivo of sorts, accompanies any food where a rosé might be suggested, and it could easily be enjoyed when the cheese course is brought out.

Or quite simpy, when something refreshing is in order.

saluté

A seasonal salad

2008-07-25T18:31:00.002+12:00

These yellow beans make for a lovely salad. Washed and blanched until just tender crisp, tossed with garlic, diced onion, dried oregano, seasoned with salt and pepper and then dressed with olive oil and white wine vinegar, they are a simple yet lovely contorno to grilled steak or spicy chicken.

Can be served at room temperature or slightly chilled.

Mangia!

Pasta of the week

2008-07-23T03:05:00.011+12:00

What a week it's been. Here at la tavola, we have much the same problem as Barbara over at winosandfoodies, both our birthdays fall within a few days of each other in the middle of July.

It's not a bad thing.. sometimes we share a cake, sometimes we (ok, I) make two, and we typically have a party (of varying degrees) on whichever date falls on the weekend. This year, not being overly significant ages (we're both past our 21st and nothing ending in '0') we kept it pretty low key. On Wednesday, had a nice dinner with a favourite bottle of wine and for the weekend birthday boy, a small backyard gathering featuring my favourite chocolate layer cake and Italian meringue icing.

The other half received a few nice bottles to accompany coffee and I received some lovely presents as well. I was delighted to be presented with a box of mixed goodies: a microplane, a Boos cutting board, a bottle of Ata Rangi Sauvignon blanc and a lovely wine journal.

Then, last week we were getting geared up for the Feast of San Giorgio Martire and San Giacomo Apolosto. Saturday was spent making sausages and running erands for last minute details and Sunday was the event day. We were at the church hall by 9am to preheat the ovens, dress the large sheet pizzas and get grilling the sausages. It makes for a busy weekend but it's wonderful to see the Saints paraded around like in San Giorgio Morgeto and also in Aosta.

In the middle of all this fun, I was also the recipient of some long lost/newly discovered ravioli moulds from the depths of the cantina. So for some kitchen therapy, I've been making pasta.

These are lovely old moulds, either brought over from Italy or bought at one of the many local shops that stocked popular Italian kitchen gadgets 30 years ago. No one quite agrees on the origin..

The pasta, on the other hand, is fresh. I've been making and freezing it for a family dinner next week. As well, some tiny ravioli (gluten free!) for my sister-in-law who suffers from a wheat intolerance.. made even more difficult with the temptation of a childhood favourite and the mainstay of the Italian table.

And I have to admit to being rather pleased with myself. I haven't done much cooking or baking with alternative flour and gum mixures before, so the fact that these turned out at all, passing both Mama's taste and texture test, was a bonus. The filling is a simple ricotta, pecorino sardo and egg mixture and we'll probably serve them with a basic fresh tomato sauce.

Ciao!

Magazine Mondays - Orange Ricotta Tart

2008-07-22T07:58:00.001+12:00

Creampuff (from Creampuffs in Venice) had a great idea last year that I always thought that I'd try and adopt. And here is the fluffy ricotta orange zest honey egg yolk beginning of one orange ricotta tart.

Food magazines. I'm not the greatest for resisting those glossy covered magazines adorned with mouthwatering photos.. that wintery soup on the cover of the AGT or crackling covered roast on delicious (you know what I'm talking about). I love cooking and experimenting with savoury foods but with access to farmers markets, a great veggie garden and a darling local butcher, I rarely venture outside of the seasonal selction. I don't want to have to make special purchases out of season when nature's bounty is readily available and at it's best. Combine that with food experiences gained through travelling and I'm never at a loss for ideas (and potential experiments). My main weakness, however, when it comes to cookbooks would have to be my 'thing' for baking.

While there is an evident beauty in all produce, perhaps it is the dramatic transformation (not to mention therapeutic value) of nurturing flour, butter, eggs and/or yeast that I adore so much. Add to that cheese and simplicity, when I spied this gem in an edition of Fine Cooking.. the temptation was too much. It's quite similar, minus the cream, to my usual ricotta tart.

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Orange Ricotta Tart. Adapted from Fine Cooking.

2lb. ricotta cheese (don't low fat out here, also can be a mixture of mostly ricotta and/or bakers cheese supplemented with a few good sized tablespoons of cream cheese)

3/4 cup caster sugar

2 Tbsp. unbleached flour

pinch of salt

2 or 3 egg yolks (I used 2 size 7 because I had them leftover from making meringue.)

Zest and juice of half an orange (or 1 Tbsp. orange liqueur)

1 recipe of your favourite sweet pastry (paté sucre) or crumb crust, baked and cooled.

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Combine the ricotta and/or mixture of cheeses (if using). I usually cannot resist a few good spoonfuls of fresh ricotta and fruit so I have to augment the amounts with something else.. Beat cheese at medium speed (with an electric mixer) until well blended and mixture is lump free.

Add sugar, flour, and salt and beat until well blended. Add the yolks, zest, and orange juice. Beat only until incorporated and with a rubber spatula, scrape the filling into the crust and spread evenly.

Bake the tart until the filling is nearly set (still a little wobbly). It will continue to set when removed from the oven. Approximately 30- 35 minutes. I've seen recipes that say to leave cheese cakes and tarts in the oven to cool but I removed this one from the oven and let it cool on a rack. Chill tart in the refrigerator until firm, about 2 hours.

Poolish, biga and sponge, oh my!

2008-07-19T10:46:00.004+12:00

It's been a week long bake fest while I recover from jetlag, sort out my computer, procrastinate a little and maybe even celebrate a few birthdays. And to that end, this is what's happening on top of the refrigerator at the moment. Poolish.

Poolish, biga, sponge and starter are all terms you may have seen in bread recipes, all referring to various methods of starting the leavening process as well as adding flavour and texture to bread through fermentation. While the basic fermentation, that of yeast, can be undertaken without this added complexity to give technically good bread, I prefer the little 'something else' added by these traditional means.

Poolish is (approximately) a 1:1 water flour mixture given a kick start with a teaspoon or two of yeast. The top of the fridge isn't the warmest place in the house at the moment but it's warmer than the countertop and it's draft free. The hot water cupboard is too warm for the cool slow ferment I prefer.

A cooler ferment, you may ask? Isn't it heat I am after?? Well, yes, if the house is under 10C.. but no, if it is a constant say, 16C upwards. Just place the bowl on top of the fridge, near the back where there is the tiniest bit of warmth, and leave it for 24-48 hours. A longer cooler ferment retains the volatiles that will later contribute flavour and aroma to your bread.

Lessons from Micro 4804 back in the day and reminders from my lovely gift to self (also a few years back) courtesy of Jeffrey Alford and Naomi Duguid. I won't turn this in to a book review but will say that this isn't the typical Alford/Duguid travelogue and regionally focused cookbook that you might be used to if you are familiar with their work. It's more of the bit of this, bit of that, here and there style of comforting home recipes they have amassed over the years. A few of their more personal souvenirs, if you will, that they now (with the possible exception of the high altitude chocolate cookies?) make at home.

I bought Homebaking with the eventual ideal of getting back to making all my own bread. I grew up eating only homemade (not by choice, I might add) but would have much preferred the store bought bread brought to school by my classmates. Travelling has since expanded my definition of bread and I love a variety of types and styles to accompany different meals and foods (cheese!) as much as I enjoy pairing a meal with a particular beer or wine.

I picked a few recipes to run a few experiments for the simple reasons that they are time flexible and were similar to recipes from my favourite parts of Southern Italy, Apuglia and Calabria.

While I started the early day with a latte, the Pugliese sponge started with biga. Biga is drier than poolish, usually 2:1 flour to water. Don't be tempted to smooth it out with more liquid (water is a product of the fermentation process), it will hydrate on standing. Once the biga has developed for about 12-24 hours, it is broken into pieces and made into a smooth batter with more water, flour and sometimes additional yeast. Not for beginners or anyone without deft hands, pugliese sponge 'dough' is more of a batter. Slimy and slippery, you'll almost wonder if you've added too much water or somehow forgotten the bulk of the flour.

The trick of getting it into the oven from your peel is another matter but the loaf does rise and brown. It is a moist loaf, slices well and makes great toast a few days later.

The Calabrese loaf (it's actually called "Italian bread") could very well be any ubiquitous boulé from other regions but after trying it, it is very similar to the loaves churned out in Toronto's Little Italy and other Italian communities as Calabrese bread. These 3 1-kg loaves and 2 foccaccia began life as poolish. Poolish is approximately a 1:1 flour water mixture with a bit of yeast (dissolved prior to adding the flour). The main thing about this bread was the ability for it to be made over a few days if timing wasn't the most convenient.

Above are the baker's treats. A steaming latté to start the day, lunch of tomato salad and and some homemade coppa with a pugliese bread roll, and after a long day of baking the loaves, a cold beer. There are other rewards, having made more than enough bread to keep us in stock for awhile, I made a wonderful trade with my neighbour who was happy to have some fresh bread for dinner. In exchange for a Calabrese loaf, I received a large bowl of spicy stoccafisso (similar to baccala) cooked in tomatoes. Very good with the bread to soak up the sauce.

Mangia!

Regalos from the Yucatán Peninsula

2008-07-18T23:20:00.005+12:00

I first became truly enamoured with the cuisine of the Yucatán Peninsula when I drove across it three years ago. On the peninsula, there are three states, Yucatán, Campeche and Quintana Roo. Aside from Cancún in the latter state, mainstream fast food chains do not predominate the landscape (thank goodness!) and although many restaurants do offer familiar choices, there are so many traditional and regional foods (and drinks) to choose from, why would anyone bother?

Even with Mexican cuisine becoming increasingly popular and available (we are now more open to the idea of adding chocolate to savoury dishes!), there are, however, still some issues with sourcing some of the authentic ingredients. While oregano or thyme are semi-reasonable substitutes for epazote and nopal and tomatillos are now available dried or in tins, it is the flavour of the dried chiles (ok, and the cheese) whose flavour I miss the most when recreating Mexican dishes at home.

Above are a few of my recent aquisitions. The short wrinkled dark chile to the far left of the platter is an ancho chile (a dried poblano) that, of the three, is probably the sweetest by far. Rehydrated and pureed, it lends its earthy flavour and subtle heat to my favourite red rice (arroz rojo de chile ancho).

The two dark rust coloured chiles in the middle of the platter are slightly more pliable and quite thin skinned in comparison to the ancho. They are guajillo chiles and they have a mild to moderate heat brought even more alive with a light toast on a grill plate or comal. This flavour is a perfect ground as an addition to a dry rub for grilled ribs or a pork tenderloin or in a paste for Oaxacan mole.

And finally, the deep dark black red pasjilas (a dried chile chilaca). These are the hottest (medium to hot heat) of the lot. I'm thinking that one of these in a large pot of chilli con carne will layer in a toasted warming complexity to that basic dish or in a paste I'd add to 'charro' beans.

The care package also contained some tamarind and mango lollies, also flavoured with .. you guessed it.. chiles for a subtle sweet heat.

Thank you Christine

2008-07-06T04:38:00.002+12:00

More than a few years ago now, I watched the resident Greek Cuisine Queen of Food Network Canada, Christine Cushing, in an episode of her popular 'Live' show. It featured many themes and although the food of her heritage made the occasional appearance, my love of greek food was sealed with this dish. Now while we can't deny the instant appeal (at least among those of us with an inkling of a sweet tooth) of the honey syrup pistachio goodness of baklava, or the flaming cheese showstopper, saganaki, it was the moussaka that really got my attention.

The fragrant simmering meat sauce, creamy béchamel, savoury potatoes and roasted eggplant layers all culminate into a wonderful warming dish perfect for nights that the rooftops are frosted and the first smudges of woodsmoke are wafting from chimneys across a windless, moonlit Manawatu (or Maniototo) sky.. If savoury comfort food has a defining dish, moussaka would certainly be in the running.

I'd encourage anyone who makes this dish to use lamb. It's flavour blends perfectly with the oregano, cinnamon and nutmeg. I also embellish the béchamel a bit, adding a bay leaf and a bit of onion (removed before use) for a litle more complexity. And since we're taking liberties, a little lemon brightens up the potato layer.

And nothing complements this dish like a glass of your favourite red. I highly recommend the Cantina Dorgali Cannonau (gorgeous Sardegnian Grenache) that I decanted an hour before dinner.

Cheers!

Been there

2008-06-25T14:10:00.001+12:00

Done that.

In contrast to the tropical picture of a few posts ago, this was not the warmest location. But a beautiful one.

The wind carried mist of the pounding surf and the desolate feel and colour of the day made a nip of Vecchia Romagna taste very good indeed. And given the coming forecast, perhaps a prerequisite!

Stay warm everyone!

Sticky date pud

2008-06-19T10:47:00.002+12:00

As the evening temperatures drop well into the single digits, my thoughts turn to pudding after a meal more than any other time of year. Comforting and warming, pudding also fills the house with the sweet scent of baking. It's as good a reason as any to have someone over and put the jug on..

This is a take on Nigella's sticky date pudding. It's a sort of self saucing version and since we are most keen on self saucing puds, I thought this would be interesting to try.

While not bad, not bad at all actually, I think I prefer to keep with my old recipe and make a separate sauce. Although I'll happily return to this when there is a crowd around and it will all be eaten the day it is made. The thing about the self saucing puds is that, while it still tastes good, the sauce soaks into any leftover cake.

"What's the problem with that??" I hear you ask..

Hmm.. Nothing, nothing at all actually.

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Self-saucing sticky date pud.
Adapted from Nigella Bites.

Cake:

100g dark brown sugar (the higher the molasses content the better)
175g self raising flour
125mL milk
1 size 7 egg (large)
50g butter, melted
1 tsp good vanilla extract
180g dates, pitted and chopped

Sauce:

200g dark brown sugar
1 heaped Tbsp butter
500mL boiling water

Combine sugar and flour in a medium bowl. Measure milk and add egg, vanilla and melted butter. Mix the liquid into the dry ingredients until just coming together and fold in the dates gently.

Spoon the mixture into a buttered 1.5L capacity baking dish and spread evenly. Sprinkle the remaining brown sugar over the cake batter and dot with the remaining butter. Pour the boiling water over the lot and carefully place in the oven.

Bake at 190C for about 45 minutes. Cake will be golden and springy when done. Allow to cool slightly and serve with ice cream or whipped cream if desired. A dollop of mascarpone or crème fraîche wouldn't be bad either.

So long and thanks for all the fish

2008-06-17T17:13:00.003+12:00

Or pictures of fish anyway. Not to mention all the other good looking food photos that were posted in your 18 months on line.

Cheers Jean!

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Photo credit: http://www.tastespotting.com/
Title credit: Douglas Adams, 1984